Climbing near Boulder in late Dec. Will it be WI?

Hi, my name is Davis. I'm a climber in Chattanooga, TN. I will be visiting Denver/Boulder area between Dec 27 and Jan 2 and wanted to get on some Colorado style climbs while I will be out there. I'm probably just bringing a harness, but have a friend with a trad rack and ice gear. Where would be good places to get some climbing in? I'm not trying to get on something like a 10 pitch 5.7 at the flatirons. Thanks!

If you get lucky you could be climbing multipitch in the sun or it could be snowing...

Rincon and West Ridge in Eldo, south facing crags in Boulder Canyon, and Clear Creek, Table Mountain. Lots of winter cragging options in and around Boulder.

I'm specifically interested in technical sport in the 10 and 11 range, add well as short trad lines

ChillFancy wrote:I'm specifically interested in technical sport in the 10 and 11 range, add well as short trad lines

There is no way anyone can truly answer your question. It will be 70 degrees here this week, and has been in Jan and Feb in previous years, but could also be literally -20 on the same date. Shelf Road is a standard winter spot when it's a little warmer and sunny, but it is a bit of a drive from Boulder. The Golden Cliffs (table mountain) in Golden will be climbable if it is above 40 degrees and sunny.

Addendum: If there is no wind there are many spots in the South St. Vrain Canyon that are quite sunny.

You should hope and pray that conditions allow climbing on the first flatiron. I promise you that it's unforgettable. In the SE, a 5.6 is choss-tacular, out here it can be something so much more, an experience where history and scenic views meld together imto a sublime experience. The 1st Flatiron is the king line of the Front Range, the aesthetics alone make it worth the trip, out west, the romance of climbing isn't really about how hard you can pull down, it's about the whole experience, something very different from TN where bullet hard sandstone is rarely taller than 100ft. So many of the greatest climbers in the country have cut their teeth in the Flatirons, and still head back time and time again for an after work free solo simply because the climbing is wonderful and the formation is RIGHT THERE, it's in your face and it begs to be climbed.

Disclaimer, this isn't a troll, I'm the "friend with a trad rack and ice gear"

But if it's -20 I don't want to get on anything too far from ground. haha

If it's cold I think your best bet is table. I've climbed there in low 30's in a t-shirt and sweated.

ChillFancy wrote:But if it's -20 I don't want to get on anything too far from ground. haha

it was 70 yesterday

willeslinger wrote: it was 70 yesterday

And 33 with light drizzle today.... you just never know!

Andddd 60 and sunny tomorrow :)

willeslinger wrote:In the SE, a 5.6 is choss-tacular

:-/

We are in the same shitty weather pattern as last year: drought and way warmer than normal. So your odds of having good weather are pretty high. Biggest threat will be winds.

Ryan Williams wrote: :-/

I just don't think that Chattanooga climbing uses the lower end of the grade scale like certain other areas (The Gunks, South Platte, Lumpy's Ridge, etc). To be fair, N Carolina has that older school scale. But the climbing in Chatt really starts at 5.7/5.8.

ChillFancy wrote:I'm specifically interested in technical sport in the 10 and 11 range, add well as short trad lines

If the weather is nice I highly recommend, Brown Palace mountainproject.com/v/the-b…. 6 nicely bolted pitches (1@5.9, 3@5.10, and 2@5.11a), W-SW facing. It's the longest pure sport route in CO.

willeslinger wrote: I just don't think that Chattanooga climbing uses the lower end of the grade scale like certain other areas (The Gunks, South Platte, Lumpy's Ridge, etc). To be fair, N Carolina has that older school scale. But the climbing in Chatt really starts at 5.7/5.8.

Fair enough. I agree.

Will, I definitely agree about Chatt climbing starting at 5.7. There are a few 5.6 lines around (Leda, Foster, Obed) but those are really for training new leaders. How are the conditions looking in CO? Estes Park looks pretty sweet!

Estes Park itself will be quiet and relatively unpopulated this time of year, though it'll pick up some while you're here. Lumpy Ridge is absolutely spectacular, but super dodgy in terms of weather. It can be totally climbable on a sunny 50-degree day, since many things face south. But the descents off the back sides can be ass-deep snow (assuming it might have snowed up there before you arrive). There are some rappel descents, of course. And the number of true sport routes up there is somewhere between slim and none; best bring your friend with trad rack.

Definitely consider the First Flatiron. It's a honey.

Yea, Will was going to go with me to the first Flatiron but he will be climbing in Chattanooga while I'm in Boulder. I'm definitely looking for anyone psyched and interested in climbing with a temporary partner for a day trip. I have no ice experience, but am a confident climber.

ChillFancy wrote:Yea, Will was going to go with me to the first Flatiron but he will be climbing in Chattanooga while I'm in Boulder. I'm definitely looking for anyone psyched and interested in climbing with a temporary partner for a day trip. I have no ice experience, but am a confident climber.

Davis is good people, I'd bet he'll buy a couple rounds if you rope up with him. Besides, you get the added benefit of introducing a newb to the CO microbrew scene... always a fun experience

Yes, I'm good people. :b Anyone know what the conditions are looking like in Eldo and Boulder Canyons? Boulder was cold today, Breckenridge was reeeaaallly cold. Maybe the temp will break freezing tomorrow to melt the Flat Irons. I think I'll ride over to The Dome and Elephant Buttrices tomorrow.