Rigid-stem friends
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This thread makes me regret selling my forged rigid friends. :-( |
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What about the nylon webbing on my rigid stems? You think it's safe to climb on 20 year old nylon webbing that never has been used. It looks brand new. Supposedly nylon, even when never used has a max life expectancy of 5 years. What you think? |
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Yes, its safe to climb. However, if you are going to fall you might want new webbing. Get them reslung. Its cheap. |
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Peter Stokes wrote: well, let's just say if an extra half pound of gear keeps me from sending then I probably wasn't going to succeed with something modern either.True. Howevver.... The point in my particular case (alpine use) was more for long approaches. Example, when we did Sunlight Spire last summer, we were thankful to relieve our packs of every single half pound we possibly could. We were in there for five days (hit Noname Basin and some routes there as well) and the lighter rack in the 5-day overnight packs was certainly appreciated. JLP wrote:...awkward, energy sucking POS antiques...Haha, yes. I love my POS antiques. Wish I'd never sold the copperheads, forest chocks, saddle wedges, etc, at the climbing gym 15 years ago. They got scarfed up fast and I thought "good to clean the closet." Mistake. Sure glad I at least kept the RSFs. I love functional antiques. : ) But to each his own. Side note: Anyone ever place a saddle wedge? Those were amazing chocks, especially for their day. Some of the new stoppers (nuts) are being shaped like the old saddle wedge - talk about that passive piece being ahead of its time! And they came with this cool pamphlet that taught a lot about chockcraft. Ah... chockcraft... becoming a lost art...? |
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They've been paid for since 1982, they've never needed repair, and they still work. |
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Alex Stenzel wrote:What about the nylon webbing on my rigid stems? You think it's safe to climb on 20 year old nylon webbing that never has been used. It looks brand new. Supposedly nylon, even when never used has a max life expectancy of 5 years. What you think?If you've had to ask twice, you've just answered your own question. |
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The RSF that I have are the older ones prior to the "Forged Friends". My RSF are all tied off with Gunks tie-off using 5mm Tech cord. I still love 'em - except for the #1 |
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wivanoff wrote:The RSF that I have are the older ones prior to the "Forged Friends". My RSF are all tied off with Gunks tie-off using 5mm Tech cord. I still love 'em - except for the #1 But, I'm curious about the Forged Friends. Isn't the cross section different where you would make the Gunks tie off? If i remember correctly, there was a slot forged on each side of the stem where the lightening holes are and where you would add the 5mm cord. Don't those slots create a thinner cross section (read: sharper edge) where the lightening holes are?The edge needn't be sharper if you get busy with a small round file. |
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Gunkiemike wrote: The edge needn't be sharper if you get busy with a small round file.I was thinking about the thin cross section BETWEEN the holes. I don't own any forged friends to compare with my old RSF. |
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Geez, I think now I'll send mine off to be re-slung, I never did the tie off deal either and led a lot of trad, didn't seem to be a problem. Who does folks recommend for re-slinging RSF Metolius did a superb job on my TCU's but they only sling their own products. |
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Wired Bliss in Loveland does a great job w/quick turn around. |
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Sounds like I might have to pick up a couple to play with next season. |
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+1 for wired bliss...and his cams are awesome. |
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WB is in Loveland now ??? |
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Alex S.: Nylon loses strength just by being around so long, and won't show it until you pull-test it to failure. Get those buggers reslung. Cheap life insurance. |
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Apparently rigid stems let you make cams a little big bigger than usual |
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I compared the weight of an rf 3 1/2 and a camalot no.3. and the rf is 176g and the camalot 198g. About 20% less weight for the rigid stem! Regress or progress? |
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Alex Stenzel wrote:I compared the weight of an rf 3 1/2 and a camalot no.3. and the rf is 176g and the camalot 198g. About 20% less weight for the rigid stem! Regress or progress?Nah, it's just that double-axle cams, like Camalots/C4's and Dragon cams, are generally heavier than their single-axle counterparts. In the same size (approximately)... Wild Country #3.5 Helium Friend: 171g DMM #3.5 Demon cam: 181g DMM #5 Dragon cam: 195g Wired Bliss #4 Quad cam: 201g Metolius Medium Supercam: 255g CAMP #5 Tricam: 120g (winner!) |