Mountain Project Logo

Rigid-stem friends

patto · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 25

This thread makes me regret selling my forged rigid friends. :-(

That said I like my cams, and I love Totems! I've never seen something grip as well as a Totem cam.

Alex Stenzel · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 15

What about the nylon webbing on my rigid stems? You think it's safe to climb on 20 year old nylon webbing that never has been used. It looks brand new. Supposedly nylon, even when never used has a max life expectancy of 5 years. What you think?

Sam Lightner, Jr. · · Lander, WY · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,732

Yes, its safe to climb. However, if you are going to fall you might want new webbing. Get them reslung. Its cheap.

dancesatmoonrise · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 695
Peter Stokes wrote: well, let's just say if an extra half pound of gear keeps me from sending then I probably wasn't going to succeed with something modern either.
True. Howevver....

The point in my particular case (alpine use) was more for long approaches.

Example, when we did Sunlight Spire last summer, we were thankful to relieve our packs of every single half pound we possibly could. We were in there for five days (hit Noname Basin and some routes there as well) and the lighter rack in the 5-day overnight packs was certainly appreciated.

JLP wrote:...awkward, energy sucking POS antiques...
Haha, yes. I love my POS antiques. Wish I'd never sold the copperheads, forest chocks, saddle wedges, etc, at the climbing gym 15 years ago. They got scarfed up fast and I thought "good to clean the closet." Mistake. Sure glad I at least kept the RSFs. I love functional antiques. : ) But to each his own.

Side note:
Anyone ever place a saddle wedge? Those were amazing chocks, especially for their day. Some of the new stoppers (nuts) are being shaped like the old saddle wedge - talk about that passive piece being ahead of its time! And they came with this cool pamphlet that taught a lot about chockcraft. Ah... chockcraft... becoming a lost art...?
TWK · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 160

They've been paid for since 1982, they've never needed repair, and they still work.

I'd like to play around with some newer gear with (supposed?) improvements, but I can't really bring myself to throw down for it, given the above. I'm sure I'd like the new stuff at least as much, if not more.

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,241
Alex Stenzel wrote:What about the nylon webbing on my rigid stems? You think it's safe to climb on 20 year old nylon webbing that never has been used. It looks brand new. Supposedly nylon, even when never used has a max life expectancy of 5 years. What you think?
If you've had to ask twice, you've just answered your own question.
wivanoff · · Northeast, USA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 674

The RSF that I have are the older ones prior to the "Forged Friends". My RSF are all tied off with Gunks tie-off using 5mm Tech cord. I still love 'em - except for the #1

But, I'm curious about the Forged Friends. Isn't the cross section different where you would make the Gunks tie off? If i remember correctly, there was a slot forged on each side of the stem where the lightening holes are and where you would add the 5mm cord.

Don't those slots create a thinner cross section (read: sharper edge) where the lightening holes are?

Alex Stenzel · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 15
Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492
wivanoff wrote:The RSF that I have are the older ones prior to the "Forged Friends". My RSF are all tied off with Gunks tie-off using 5mm Tech cord. I still love 'em - except for the #1 But, I'm curious about the Forged Friends. Isn't the cross section different where you would make the Gunks tie off? If i remember correctly, there was a slot forged on each side of the stem where the lightening holes are and where you would add the 5mm cord. Don't those slots create a thinner cross section (read: sharper edge) where the lightening holes are?
The edge needn't be sharper if you get busy with a small round file.
wivanoff · · Northeast, USA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 674
Gunkiemike wrote: The edge needn't be sharper if you get busy with a small round file.
I was thinking about the thin cross section BETWEEN the holes. I don't own any forged friends to compare with my old RSF.
jhn payne · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 46

Geez, I think now I'll send mine off to be re-slung, I never did the tie off deal either and led a lot of trad, didn't seem to be a problem. Who does folks recommend for re-slinging RSF Metolius did a superb job on my TCU's but they only sling their own products.

David Rivers · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 20

Wired Bliss in Loveland does a great job w/quick turn around.

btustison Tustison · · Tacoma, Washington · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 5

Sounds like I might have to pick up a couple to play with next season.

Rob WardenSpaceLizard · · las Vegans, the cosmic void · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 130

+1 for wired bliss...and his cams are awesome.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

WB is in Loveland now ???

Nick Sandstrom · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 135

I have rigid friends 2.5; 3; 3.5; 4, anyone interested they are in great shape but with slings that I tied. Offers?

friends 1

friends 2

friends 3

flynn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2002 · Points: 25

Alex S.: Nylon loses strength just by being around so long, and won't show it until you pull-test it to failure. Get those buggers reslung. Cheap life insurance.

dancesatmoonrise: I liked the Saddle Wedges so much, I still have nearly a full set, and that great pamphlet, too. Chockcraft may be a dying art, but so are cursive writing and being able to spell. They're all still useful.

We still have and use RSFs, including some first-generation, nutted-axle numbers. They work great! As the trigger wires break, though, they may perforce get turned into paperweights. Damn.

Caleb Cerling · · Boulder, CO · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 55

Apparently rigid stems let you make cams a little big bigger than usual

Giant Rigid Stem

Alex Stenzel · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 15

I compared the weight of an rf 3 1/2 and a camalot no.3. and the rf is 176g and the camalot 198g. About 20% less weight for the rigid stem! Regress or progress?

Allen Corneau · · Houston, TX · Joined May 2008 · Points: 80
Alex Stenzel wrote:I compared the weight of an rf 3 1/2 and a camalot no.3. and the rf is 176g and the camalot 198g. About 20% less weight for the rigid stem! Regress or progress?
Nah, it's just that double-axle cams, like Camalots/C4's and Dragon cams, are generally heavier than their single-axle counterparts.

In the same size (approximately)...

Wild Country #3.5 Helium Friend: 171g
DMM #3.5 Demon cam: 181g
DMM #5 Dragon cam: 195g
Wired Bliss #4 Quad cam: 201g
Metolius Medium Supercam: 255g
CAMP #5 Tricam: 120g (winner!)
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Rigid-stem friends"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.