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> Estes Park Valley
> Devil's Gulch &…
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> Pulpit Rock Massif
> First Pew
New York Reload
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in First Pew
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Altar Boy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Elmo Amber Alert T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Features on a Slabscape T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Georgia Style T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Loose Horn T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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New York Reload TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Southern Hospitality T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Unknown 2 TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown 4 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Estes Park locals, equipped by Joe Vallone & friend |
| Page Views: | 1,084 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Nov 27, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Details
Sheep Mountain may have raptor closure issues. Please contact RMNP for further details.
Description
This is the third from the left of the 4 sport climbs put in late 2012 on the far right side of the 1st Pew. It ascends a small roof to a better-than-it-looks face above that gets you dancing.
Carefully climb up & clip the 1st bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13). There is a hollow flake left of the bolt. Reach up to the jug & clip bolt 2 (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13). High step left and rock on. Move onto the delightful face with nice edges. Weave your way up on small but positive edges. Find a crux around the 6th bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13) where you must trust your feet (your right fingertips are loathe to crank on that toothy hold). After the 7th bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13), you may find slightly bigger holds to the left. Finish at the 2 bolt Fixe ring anchors (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13).
Rappel 60' or continue up to Georgia Style.
These bolts sport 3 different colored hangers, red, gray, and black, because those were the ones that came out of the bag next.
Joe wrote that he and his friend equipped the route, gave a friend the opportunity for the FA, and his friend really didn't seem to care about the name, but "Father's Sauce" was getting thrown around quite a bit, since it fit with the other names used for the neighboring routes.
Given the recent bolt chopping, this is a TR at best.
Carefully climb up & clip the 1st bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13). There is a hollow flake left of the bolt. Reach up to the jug & clip bolt 2 (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13). High step left and rock on. Move onto the delightful face with nice edges. Weave your way up on small but positive edges. Find a crux around the 6th bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13) where you must trust your feet (your right fingertips are loathe to crank on that toothy hold). After the 7th bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13), you may find slightly bigger holds to the left. Finish at the 2 bolt Fixe ring anchors (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13).
Rappel 60' or continue up to Georgia Style.
These bolts sport 3 different colored hangers, red, gray, and black, because those were the ones that came out of the bag next.
Joe wrote that he and his friend equipped the route, gave a friend the opportunity for the FA, and his friend really didn't seem to care about the name, but "Father's Sauce" was getting thrown around quite a bit, since it fit with the other names used for the neighboring routes.
Given the recent bolt chopping, this is a TR at best.
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