Wallface, Daks Questions
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I have done some extensive internet research but do have questions still and will greatly appreciate anyones answers/opinions - |
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norwegianwanderer wrote:I have done some extensive internet research but do have questions still and will greatly appreciate anyones answers/opinions - Primary question: is there a window of decent weather and no flys before summer? Everyone notes late sept/oct is best but nothing in april or may historically? Secondary questions/requests (if you have time): Have you or someone you know climbed the 'diagonal' route? If so I will enjoy your opinion. Is there a solid water source at the cliffs base/primary camp area? This bit of info I though I would have found out easily. Any comments at all on Wallface are welcome as I am just starting to discover (unfortunately from a distance) this amazing place. Thank you.Been there during summer after the flys, it was very nice. It's probably better do it in a day, but if you dead set on camping, there are a lot of streams around there. You need to filter/boil the water. |
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If you come up from Upper Works, there is a nice lean to with water close by, which is maybe 2 miles from Indian Pass. |
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Thank you very much. I appreciate your experience. |
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Also if you don't have it...I suggest the Jim Lawyer/ Jeremy Haas guidebook Adirondack Rock. Chock full of detail, great book! |
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Ben Brotelho wrote:The bushwack from summit rock to the cliff was horrendous though.Sounds like you missed the cairns - it's not bad if you're on-track! Ben Brotelho wrote:The Diagonal is a fun route, but I'd be wary of early spring ascents...I've sat at Summit Rock with a friend in late fall watching human size icicles fall onto the diagonal ramp from above...needless to say we didn't choose to climb it that dayApril could be scary. It will almost certainly be wet. May would be better, but watch the weather and check on conditions. If the next-to-last pitch is slimy the crux could require aid. |
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I climbed it in May and the route was a bit wet. Ended up being able to fill up water with drips coming from the top. |
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Nice post! I'm also planning to venture out to Wallface for the first time next season to climb Diagonal. Will probably camp and enjoy the surroundings since I don't think I can convince the wife to do it in a single day...The Lawyer book lists a lot of camping areas but if anyone else has particular favorites or additional insights feel free to share. Thanks! |
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Another vote for May or later. Very short window before black flies start to dominate in the high peaks, and they were still particularly bad when I was there early July. If temps are no longer getting below freezing at night the black flies are likely starting to hatch. |
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If you want a unique experience, camp up on the wall one pitch above the ramp. All you need are sleeping pads and bags because you should already have gear to build anchors. Great view to wake up to. |
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Don't be fooled - the leanto used to be approximately 2 miles from the Adirondack Loj approach is no longer there. Irene lifted it up and sent it down stream on the opposite side of the brook. I would definitely gather up to date info on that area before you enter. Have fun! |
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How long does the average party take to ascend `the diagnol`? Average time for any route on wallface? |
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Wallface in winter conditions can be an experience. A long time ago friends of mine were climbing/camping in there and had quite the epic. One of the party members dropped a refrigerator sized rock on their doubles and nearly lost a toe. Had to be lowered from 300' or so. Dumped blood out of the boots at the hospital. Fortunately they were practicing fixing ropes for an Alaskan adventure, so they had all the gear to self rescue. |
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Wallface in winter conditions is really appealing (I want to free climb so `light` winter) and I want to mimmic a climbing experience in the big ranges. I'm looking for an adventure with consequences. Its the hazards that bring that spark that I love, that awareness and seriousness and wallface seems perfect for me in the east! |
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I would be stoked to get on Wallface this spring if folks are looking for partners... i live in CT but love driving in NY. |
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Noted captain mo |
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Hey Mo, |
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Logan and Mo are there any routes or type of climbing you have in mind? I'm curious if anything specific `tickles your fancy`? |
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I'm at work and don't have the book handy (productive day). Obviously Diagonal but I'm sure there is some other good stuff too, right? Climbing primarily in the Gunks I haven't done that much crack and am stronger on face and roofs, but enjoy all styles. What style/climbs are on your list? |
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I'm limited on wallface (anywhere) because I'm terrible at aid climbing and I havent taken the time to practice the flow. The only climb I for sure will do/attempt is `the diagonal`. I plan on being in the area for at least 5 straight climbing days so other routes are possible (and I have time to decide) on Wallface or other areas. But climbing different routes on that awesome wall is very appealing. I enjoy becoming intimate with one area (mountain, etc). |
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I like a lot of climbing... most importantly though is I'm not a fan of intense hand jamming or OW. I love a great finger crack or exposed aretes and faces or roofs. I haven't really aid climbed a route but I think with 15 years trad climbing I've pulled on piece of gear here and there so it doesn't seem like a big deal (unless it requires hooking or something like that). To tickle my fancy we'd probably have to be scouting out an old aid line to free or some undone line, that would get me giddy. |