The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread

Noah8000 wrote:For those curious about Fields Chimney conditions...These photos from a couple weeks ago.

FYI: A climbing partner of mine was up there this Tuesday. He said it's melted out a lot from the conditions your photos show.

David Appelhans wrote:So what is the best way down from Flying Dutchman? I'm thinking about soloing, do you need a rope to get down a section of the loft?

No rope needed on the descent. The top-out is very straight forward and brings you right into the Meeker-Longs Saddle, just above the Loft. The fastest way out is to descend the Loft, via a well cairned path. Do some research on the walk-off, as a botched descent down the Loft can be a little heinous. (yet, super casual if you know where to go) There is a marked path of switch-backs to climbers left. Follow these to the promised land.

Alexanders Chimney is in shitty conditions.. (Literally)

AntinJ wrote: Do some research on the walk-off, as a botched descent down the Loft can be a little heinous (but super casual if you know where to go) There is a path marked switch-backs to climbers left. Follow these to the promised land.

+1...came too low a few years ago and ended up scrambling out on moss covered rock with pons trying to reach a manky piton, then rapped off a sketchy anchor just to barely make the snow below. Never again... Make sure you know where the ramp is.

Wow, looks like it's going to be a banner year at Lincoln! Thanks to RowdyWrangellian and whoever else has been farming up there!

Really nice ice pitch on Thatchtop (NW face)

Thatchtop NW face, 03 Nov. 2012.

Loch Vale ice has a way to go, though the tracks through the snow indicate the area has already seen a fair amount of traffic.
Loch Vale ice, 03 Nov. 2012.

willeslinger wrote:Is anything TR accessible at Lincoln lake up for any traffic? Or is that going to break everything and fuck it up for a while? Haven't had a chance to check it out first hand. Definitely don't want to be up there prematurely.

Overflow/Jewel Lake today

Overflow, 11/04/2012.

Overflow, 11/04/2012.

All Mixed Up.

willeslinger wrote:
"Is anything TR accessible at Lincoln lake up for any traffic? Or is that going to break everything and fuck it up for a while? Haven't had a chance to check it out first hand. Definitely don't want to be up there prematurely."

Climbed Lincoln Falls today and there are plenty of climbable options, but with many early-season ice areas, Lincoln does have several features that should be given some more time to form.

The farming efforts have payed off - in a sense that even with nearly 20 cars in the lot today, we still managed to get plenty of pitches in!

This was however the first time I've seen that many perma-TR's set up on the pillar(s).

Side note: Make sure if you go to the Lincoln, you know the walk-off. There were multiple parties rapping down the Bowling Alley with multiple party's climbing up - the walk of takes less than 5 minutes.

South Mineral is in above 10,500 ft. everything below is melted out. a.k.a. nothing in unless you are ready for a steep hike to the top pitches of DNF. I actually don't think the problem now is temps but rather lack of water. It is super dry and no water is flowing. This upcoming Saturday's storm should help in this effort.

Pitch 3, Fields Chimney, Long's Peak.
Longs Peak, Pitch 3 Field Chimney condition as of Nov. 4th 2012, sublimating fast, nothing even a little wet on the entire route

Kevin, we dropped a couple cams on that route last Friday. You didn't happen to find them did you?

There is some pretty good ice still up in the Longs Peak Cirque if you are up to the hike. There is a short conditions report on my site.

bv
www.whiteknuckled.com

Dutchman, Smear, and Crazy Train.
Ice below Chasm Lake.
Smear on the southwest shore of Peacock Pool.
Peacock Pool with Columbine Falls and other flows.

Has anyone done any climbing within an hour of Ouray yet this year? I am considering taking a vacation there with my lady mid november, and would love to get a day of ice climbing in, but am concerned that it is just too early around there.

NW ridge of Pyramid Peak - Aspen.

NW ridge of Pyramid Peak - Aspen.

Anyone know anything about this route? It got climbed in the last couple of weeks.

Looking for some beta - thanks!

I am just in a bad mood, so I am going to comment on the above post. Although, there is no anger in my response.

Why not go and check it out yourself? You know where the route is located, you know it goes. It doesn't look terribly committing (as far as traverses, overhanging, ect.). Go have an adventure and report back!

Isn't that the picture from Chris Davenport's facebook page? Why don't you just ask him?

eric harvey wrote:I am just in a bad mood, so I am going to comment on the above post. Although, there is no anger in my response. Why not go and check it out yourself? You know where the route is located, you know it goes. It doesn't look terribly committing (as far as traverses, overhanging, ect.). Go have an adventure and report back!

These are my least favorite type of statements on mp. The entire reason mp exists is to provide beta/ask for beta. Though there may not be anger in your response, it's condescending.

Left an ice clipper biner and a reverso 4 attached to it at the base of Lincoln yesterday November 6th. I believe it should of been by the tree, let me know if you grabbed it and I will buy you some beer, I live in Summit County.

Thanks,

Anyone looking for an ice partner this weekend? Would love to go swing some tools.