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> Tigers in Lipstick
Tigers in Lipstick
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.7 from 6 votes
Type: | Trad, 35 ft (11 m) |
FA: | Paul Pianna and Suzanne Jackson, late '80s or early '90s |
Page Views: | 1,568 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Matt Richardson on May 15, 2009 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Although this is in Gillett's new guide, he describes this line as better than it looks, my eye was immediately drawn to this short line. Follow a leaning finger crack into a dihedral and up over some grovelly stone. The crack itself is surprisingly clean and the size is consistent (this route could easily be led with a single set of nuts and some runners). The crux of this route lay in the region of the dihedral where the right face is relatively clean and the only good purchase for feet can be found in the crack itself. Belay at the top - for the belay, you may need some larger pieces (but a cordelette slung around a rock of tree should be sufficient).
To descend, wade down the gully on the right through the detrius (boots would be good as the dead material is sufficiently deep that you will sink into it).
To descend, wade down the gully on the right through the detrius (boots would be good as the dead material is sufficiently deep that you will sink into it).
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