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Gothics SF or Diagonal on Wallface?

Original Post
Ben Brotelho · · Albany, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 520

Going into the high peaks this weekend with three others. We want to do something big and backcountry, and I was wondering what would be better suited for two teams of two so that we can move efficiently.

Gothics Sf, gothics arch route I believe it is called (5.6 800 something feet.) Has advantage of walk-off on nice trails, and is slabby so might accomodate two teams better.

or Diagonal on Wallface (5.8 800 something feet again.)
I have both Mellor's book and the Lawyer/Haas book.

All four of us are competent with multi-pitch systems and know how to move fast...will be swapping leads often

Auto-X Fil · · NEPA and Upper Jay, NY · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 50

I haven't done Gothic Arch, but Diagonal would work fine. You can almost climb two parties side-by side on the first 4 pitches, and the last two have big ledges in between each pitch to get sorted out. If you're used to moving fast, and share the raps, it will be a long but do-able day trip.

The downside to Diagonal is that you probably won't be alone. Again, passing is easy, so it's probably ok, but odds are good that you'd have Gothics SF alone to the 4 of you.

I say do one on Saturday and one on Sunday, then report back.

Jim Lawyer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 6,116

The backcountry routes are nice and dry right now. The South Face of Gothics, Big Slide, Porter, and so on. Just need a few degrees cooler!

Ben Brotelho · · Albany, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 520
Auto-X Fil wrote: I say do one on Saturday and one on Sunday, then report back.
'tis the plan thus far...the crux is getting the old man to submit to the plan!
Ben Brotelho · · Albany, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 520

Jim Lawyer, or anyone else reading this:

We are thinking about doing the necessary risk variation start to diagonal...any advice/ beta on route-finding for these pitches?

Also: has anyone linked the last two pitches? They're relatively short and seem to be right in line with each other which would make this reasonable. Any advice?

thanks! Looks like the weather is on our side for this trip!

Jim Lawyer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 6,116
Ben Botelho wrote:Jim Lawyer, or anyone else reading this: We are thinking about doing the necessary risk variation start to diagonal...any advice/ beta on route-finding for these pitches? Also: has anyone linked the last two pitches? They're relatively short and seem to be right in line with each other which would make this reasonable. Any advice? thanks! Looks like the weather is on our side for this trip!
Regarding Necessary Rick, just what's in the book. Everybody climbs the start differently, and route finding here is difficult. I don't recommend linking the last two pitches: the second-to-last pitch goes around a roof, and you might want short runners there (which would cause drag later). You can link (or simul-climb) all the other pitches, though.
Auto-X Fil · · NEPA and Upper Jay, NY · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 50

I'll second not linking the last two.

Pitches 3 and 4, on the diagonal, are very easy. You'll probably be happy making up time there by simuling or running it out, and you can carry a simul right around the 4th class ledge to the base of the final two pitches. That's what I'll do next time.

Ben Brotelho · · Albany, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 520

Ended up doing Wallface as a party of 3 on Saturday, from the LOJ trailhead. Took about 12.5 to 13 hours for the entire day car-to-car, and everything went pretty perfectly for such a big climb. Only shared the climb with another party of 3 behind us. First time on that cliff and I am definitely returning someday...so good.

The approach/bushwack did kick my ass quite a bit, and we all ended up sleeping in a little late on Sunday morning, so I went and climbed some random slide (we think the finger slide) on Giant with my dad, then went and did Tilman's Arete followed by an awesome swim in the pond.

Fun weekend..there was even birthday cake and singing for me, and a lot of great food and beer. The ironman did make the beer walls camp a little crowded, but we held our spot down for the two days and had a really nice spot.

Auto-X Fil · · NEPA and Upper Jay, NY · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 50

Thanks for the report! Nice weather, huh?

Ben Brotelho · · Albany, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 520

Great weather! There were some dark clouds on Saturday that got me a little worried, but they turned out to provide some awesome shade while on the Diagonal. Didn't even get sunburnt.

Every pitch was fun, all the belays were super comfy (except for the one on top of the ramp, but that was a short-lived belay anyway), the views were excellent, and all the raps went smoothly.

DannyUncanny · · Vancouver · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 100

Sorry to dig this up, but can anyone give some info on the decent? Follow the ramp or go straight down? Double ropes required or suggested? I would really prefer to rap it with a single 70 even if it means a bit of scrambling or leaving some webbing.

Bill Sacks · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 395

I made the descent using double ropes and four full 60m rappels.

Here is a photo of the bolted rappel anchors that you will use from the top of the route. I rapped straight down, not along the ramp.

Ben Brotelho · · Albany, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 520

definitely recommend bringing double ropes. Climb on halves if possible, or trail a tagline to rap with

Ben Brotelho · · Albany, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 520

also: have fun it's a great route!

Simon Thompson · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 890

Yeah definitely don't do the ramp raps. With two ropes you can make 4 easy raps down the cliff. See the Adirondack Rock guidebook by Jim Lawyer and Jeremy Haas.

Auto-X Fil · · NEPA and Upper Jay, NY · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 50

I agree: get the magnificent Lawyer/Haas book, and bring two 60m ropes. We climbed on a single and used a skinny cord as a tagline. All pulls were clean.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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