Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jeep Gaskins, Peter White, (1982)
Page Views: 4,805 total · 28/month
Shared By: Phil Hoffmann on Mar 6, 2010
Admins: Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Not actually dangerous except for one or two heady moves at the start of P1.

P1, 5.10a. Spicy moves lead to a pin and a bolt. Trend up and right on "eyebrows" to a deep horizontal 15" below a bulge system and belay on 1 to 2" gear. 100" (or link P1 and P2).
P2, 5.10. Crank straight off the belay into the bulge system with a #1 camalot for pro. Pull the bulge with a sloper or two to great incuts and great pro. Fight the pump and head for stacked pins. As the angle changes slab up to horizontal and belay with small to med gear. 120"
P3, 5.8. Climb off the belay heading up and right for bolted anchors on Irish Jig. 100"

Rejoyce in your send of this Sun Wall Classic.

Location Suggest change

100 yds rock right of Tits and Beer. 100 Yds rock left of Southender. Start at a low angle slab look for a slight left facing corner looking for a pin and a bolt. Rap from Irish Jig with two 60m ropes.

Protection Suggest change

Doubles in #1 and #2 cams are helpful. Double sets TCU's very helpful as well. Tri-cams are a great bet as well. P1 and P2 anchors are gear. Bolts at the top of P3. This is the rap station. 2 60m ropes to descend.

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