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"Wall style" routes in the Black

Original Post
Keith Earley · · Portland, OR · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 25

A friend and I are training for El Cap in a month or so, and are thinking of training by doing a route in the Black. I can free 5.9, but I would rather work on my aid systems and maybe spend a night on the wall, instead of just doing the casual route . The black isn't exactly famous for completely solid rock, so I was wondering if there were any good routes with solid continuous crack systems(C2 max) for aiding. A bivy ledge would be an extra plus.

Marc H · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 265
Keith wrote:A friend and I are training for El Cap..and are thinking of training by doing a route in the Black
Ummm?

Keith wrote:so I was wondering if there were any good routes with solid continuous crack systems(C2 max) for aiding. A bivy ledge would be an extra plus.
Zion.
Bob Dobalina · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 140

I would use Yosemite for training to climb in the Black!

Go to Zion for a real wall experience (just don't bugger-up a busy trade route) or just clean-aid a multipitch free climbing route for practicing your systems and movement.

Olaf Mitchell · · Paia, Maui, Hi, · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 4,190

I would use Yosemite for training to climb in the Black!
Plus One!

Keith Earley · · Portland, OR · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 25

Thanks guys. We have been practicing on country club a bunch to work our systems. just wondering if there were any exceptions to the rule in the black, which it seems there aren't. Zion is the back up in case the conditions in Yosemite are crappy.

Michael Goodhue · · Colorado · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 35

Aid the Naked Edge. Preferably on a Saturday.

Michael Goodhue · · Colorado · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 35

On a more helpful note:

mountainproject.com/v/fireb…

I haven't done this route, but the description seems like it would make a good one-day aid route. Something bigger than Country Club but not quite a two-day wall.

kuusk · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 0
Goodhue wrote:Aid the Naked Edge. Preferably on a Saturday.
You're a tool. I bet you look like a hippy.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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