self-rescue
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Do you take additional (on top of your standard/minimum) gear for or with self rescue in mind? If so what? |
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norwegianwanderer wrote:Do you take additional (on top of your standard/minimum) gear for or with self rescue in mind? If so what?No, I don't take anything extra. I should be able to do the trick with things that I normally use on my rack for climbing. norwegianwanderer wrote:Ever have to use self rescue techniques (tie off belay, raise/lower, tandem rapp, rope solo to injured leader, etc) in a legit self rescue situation? (not 3:1 your second because they couldn't make it on their own)In more than 15 years of climbing, I have never had to use any specific self rescue techniques other than lowering an injured climber to the ground and helping them walk out to the trail-head with a broken ankle. norwegianwanderer wrote:If you are familiar with self rescue (aka self-reliant) specific techniques what do you know (tie off belay, counter-balance rapp, etc)? Where'd you learn? Are you going to learn more? Do you practice? These are simple open questions purposely. I want to know what do my peers know, do, seek and like. Thanks all.I'm probably like most climbers. I have taken self rescue classes and crevasse rescue classes. I have learned most of the techniques that would be useful. And like most climbers, I don't practice these techniques often enough. I tell myself that I'll do it every season and I'm lucky if it happens once every 3 years or so. I think that one of the best things I have done to (re)-learn many rescue techniques has been to take up aid climbing and especially solo-aid climbing. Lots of rigging for raising and lowering involved there. |
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Knowing how to escape the belay, doing 3:1 or other assist, and jugging a line are all skills that should be known and which require no extra gear. |
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The only "extra" gear I take is a knife and 2 extra prussiks on the leg loops of my harness (I carry one other that gets used for almost all raps). |
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The only thing extra I bring are two prusik loops. |
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Never had to escape the belay in 35 years. Never had to ascend to a fallen leader. I do practice some self rescue things at the beginning of the season |
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Here is a list of items you may use in a self rescue. As many have said here you might carry these items already: |
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I've heard multiple people talk about carrying their extra cord on their leg loops, would you mind telling us how you attach them? Are they just tied on with no biner? |
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Just rap the tied prusic around the webbing going from your swami to one leg loop. Start with the knot end and then just loop the remainder over the knot when finished. Very neat and it doesn't take up room on your harness. |
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learn the kleimheist and just use the sling you normally carry ... it aint that hard ;) |
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Hiro wrote:I've heard multiple people talk about carrying their extra cord on their leg loops, would you mind telling us how you attach them? Are they just tied on with no biner? So far, I've been carrying one or two loops of cord on a locking biner, stowed on a gear loop. Just curious what others are doing...My way of doing this is not typical. I prefer to tie my prusik cord the same length as a sling and wear them over my shoulder. |
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The only "extra" gear I carry is a small locker holding: a 12" Prusik (6mm), a Tibloc, and a small serrated knife. |
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I carry 600' of staticline with me everywhere, and a whole pack full of toys to go with it. But extra gear to carry as you climb in the case you need to self rescue yourself, as said above, I should be able to make do with what's already on my rack. |
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Hiro wrote:I've heard multiple people talk about carrying their extra cord on their leg loops, would you mind telling us how you attach them? Are they just tied on with no biner? So far, I've been carrying one or two loops of cord on a locking biner, stowed on a gear loop. Just curious what others are doing...Hard to explain, but between my actual leg loops and my belay loop I just hold the knot and start to wrap tight around the harness. When done I put a few twists in the loop and loop it over the double sheet bend. Never had them fall off, never know they are there but I always have them (used them once). |
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Counterbalance rap, tandem rap, escape belay, ascend, lower off guide, haul stuff etc. |
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Derek W wrote: Hard to explain, but between my actual leg loops and my belay loop I just hold the knot and start to wrap tight around the harness. When done I put a few twists in the loop and loop it over the double sheet bend. Never had them fall off, never know they are there but I always have them (used them once).Your prussik is tied together with a double sheet bend? |
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A double length dyneema sling over my shoulder (so I don't accidentally use and always have it with me). Works great for a releasable knot when escaping the belay and since its double length is the first piece in building your 3-1 or 5-1 mechanical advantage. I also carry a caribeener on a back loop with three prusiks, a tibloc, and a tiny knife. It's all worthless though if you don't practice self rescue with it. Self rescue techniques can be difficult made much more so by the pressure of the situation. |
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I now tend to think that each second needs to always have: |
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David Coley wrote:I now tend to think that each second needs to always have: 120 cm sling on carabiner. 60cm sling (also used as a cleaning sling) short prusik (chalk bag cord) long prusik three lockers and a belay plate two spare carabiners of some kind. This is more than I once would have thought, as I always went with a light-is-right approach, however, most self-rescue situations need the above list.Sounds like an awful lot of useless crap to lug around. |
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DannyUncanny wrote: Sounds like an awful lot of useless crap to lug around.Really? Which bits? The second would always have a belay plate and a locker or two, and a chalk bag cord. So that leaves a prusik, two 6 mm slings, and a carabiner or two. Doesn't sound like a lot. I'm also not sure i could escape the system from a non powerpoint trad belay with much less, let alone rescue the leader. How would you do it? |
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There is never a situation where you NEED to have lockers. They just provide extra safety. Carrying extra gear for extra safety in an SOL situation is kind of like lugging around a SAM splint and an emergency bivy sack. Some people do that, but I prefer to bring the gear I will use to climb, and figure out how to handle problems with the gear I have on me. |