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HELP! What type of medieval shit do I strap to myself?

Original Post
mattsmith1 · · Cincinnati, OH · Joined May 2011 · Points: 0

Heading west this winter on my way to Utah powder and then warm climbing in the California desert. However, on my way I may stop in the snowless wasteland surrounding Park County Co, and meet up with a friend of a friend who wants me to try this sadistic sport he calls 'ice climbing.'

Looking to pick up some introductory gear to Mess around with that I won't toss aside should I actually enjoy this underwear shitting experience you're all fond of. Have a bad habit of either under buying ( rock empire robot cams) or over buying ( full AT setup for the 2 times a year I leave the side country) and don't want to make the same mistake.

Keeping in mind that this is for a few day's of seconding easy ice,mixed,glacier, idkwtf? That may develop into a habit.....

1.) boots: how are these different from a good pair of approach boots with vibram soles? M vs L bar?

2.) crampons: how different are glacier vs. technical? Will I flail on vert if I go with camp stalkers? Will I trip on glaciers if I go with petzl m10's? Or are they like climbing shoes and it really doesn't matter at the entry level.

3.) tools: was thinking as cheap as possible with adze and spike since I don't plan on leading soon. If I buy camp awax tools with adze and hammer and become infected with ice fever will I be disappointed in a couple years?

Thanks for your advice. YES I KNOW I SHOULD GO TO AN ICE FESTIVAL!
And yes I know there are relevant posts please link them.

Cheers

scott cooney · · La Casa Taco · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 85

the awax tools will do good at entry level and above so you shouldn't be dissapointed down the road when you are buying more tools and want to keep them in your bag of gimics. the stalkers will let you try it out for sure although if you get hooked you will want to upgrade rather quickly. boots need to be pretty tough though, approach shoes will not cut it on vertical ice, but good for you slc isn't far from pc and there are stores where you can rent mtn boots so you don't have to buy some right out of the gate.... and oh yeah almost forgot, just go to an ice fest :^)

Kevin · · California · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 0

Renting is good if you can swing it.

If you'll be top-roping, you can borrow your friend's tools while you climb.

Boots are key, as they do need to be fairly stiff. Approach shoes are a no-no.

Ben Brotelho · · Albany, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 520

get the m10's if you can!

Kyle M · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 15

Rent some gear man... Ice climbing can be really brutal...Quality gear that fits is critical... Also watch some videos and figure out the triangle... Can really help the first couple days out...
good luck out there exploring the vertical waterfall world...

Taylor-B. · · Valdez, AK · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 3,186

You can rent that gear at Wilderness Sports or Mountain Outfitters in Summit County. The only gear you can find in Park County are some shit kickers and heel spurs.

scott cooney · · La Casa Taco · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 85

REI in slc does rentals and isn't that far from PC....

KathyS · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 125

You MUST watch this video: Training for Ice Climbing

:)

Garret Nuzzo Jones · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 1,436

The only thing you should really need to have for a first time ice climbing adventure are the boots. Rent some or buy some from a place that you can return them. Rent some crampons and you'll be set. Make your friend set up a top rope and just borrow his ice tools when you switch off.

You do need a boot with a stiff sole. Try standing on the very front quarter inch of your shoes to replicate being on the ice with crampons. It's pretty much impossible with a standard shoe, difficult with some boots and surprisingly easy with mountaineering boots. You'll need something in the vein of the Scarpa Mont Blanc or the La Sportiva Nepal EVO.

mattsmith1 · · Cincinnati, OH · Joined May 2011 · Points: 0

Thanks for the advice! Guess i'll try on some boots at REI, buy them used online and then just borrow/demo equipment while I learn.

Kathy, great video! Can you believe that loser actually took classes to learn a dangerous sport? What a DORK! figure once I get my hands on three or four screws i'll go cut my teeth on sea of vapors at banff and just pick it up on the fly.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
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