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Routes in Broom Wall/Rasputin Ledge
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441 S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Acquiescence S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Alpine Dihedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Altered States S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bad Press S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Black Hole, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Drop Zone, The T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Homeboy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Magnificent 7, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Old and in the way T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Puff the magic dragon S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rambo S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Rasputin D. Scaliwag S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Rumors of War (Extension) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Saddam Hussein S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Scalded Dog S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Spellbound S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Stone Temple Pilots aka (Rumors of War) S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Swiss Chocolate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Tempest S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Warm up route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Witches Broom S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Craig Stannard and Bob Cormany, 1978 |
| Page Views: | 6,789 total · 36/month |
| Shared By: | Sam Adams on Oct 21, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Kristin Tippey, Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
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Description
This line is a little confusing at first only because the first ledge at approximately 40' has a double bolt anchor. If you only want to do the lower section this is fine, but I would not recommend doing this route in two pitches. The 5.8+ crux is right off this ledge and a fall here so close to the anchor would be not so good.
Start by climbing the left facing corner to an awkward bulge to the previously mentioned ledge. Take rest and pull the bulge above the ledge with a handcrack. Continue through a couple more 5.8 moves in a very nice and well protected hand crack. Traverse left near the top to find double bolt anchors at a spacious ledge.
Dixie Cragger's Atlas notes an alternate finish up and right, but I saw nothing that looked like it would go at 5.8 or less to the right; however it looked like an easy 4th class to the top continuing to the left past the belay ledge.
This is a great climb with challenging crux that is a little exposed and very worthy of your attention.
Start by climbing the left facing corner to an awkward bulge to the previously mentioned ledge. Take rest and pull the bulge above the ledge with a handcrack. Continue through a couple more 5.8 moves in a very nice and well protected hand crack. Traverse left near the top to find double bolt anchors at a spacious ledge.
Dixie Cragger's Atlas notes an alternate finish up and right, but I saw nothing that looked like it would go at 5.8 or less to the right; however it looked like an easy 4th class to the top continuing to the left past the belay ledge.
This is a great climb with challenging crux that is a little exposed and very worthy of your attention.
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