ice climbing

i just bought a pair of tools. now all i need is some screws and crampons. whats a good set up to start out on?

Screws with the knobs go in much easier. The knob-less ones work, and go in easier than old-school screws, and are undoubtedly cheaper (about half the price).

Lots of thoughts on crampons. If you can get a pair used, great. I really like the Petzl Lynx if you're going to buy a pair new - they'll fit all your boots, dual or monopoints, semi-rigid, real clean design, and can be used for glacier moderates. What kind of boots do you have? Some stick with the older, fully-rigid style.

Luke Deurmier wrote:i just bought a pair of tools. now all i need is some screws and crampons. whats a good set up to start out on?

What tools did you get?

Crapmpon for mostly verticle ice ... I like the Grivel G14 for walking/approach they are a great all around climber, they handle WI3-4 really well. For WI5 I like the Grivel rambo 4s, fully ridged and climb superb.
BD cyborgs and the G14 are pretty similar I like the geomertry of the G14 a bit better. . .
The Lynx looks good I have not had a chance to try them out yet, write a gear review in you get those.

For more of a mounteering crampon go with something like the Grivel G12s or BD sabortooth.

As for Ice screws ther are two and only two the rest are wierd gimiky funky or too expensive

1. BD tubro express best all around ice screw IMHO

2. Grivel 360 best for getting in to tighter spots, pockets and indents where the BD handle just won't fit.

My rack is
1 10 cm BD (for that one desperate move where is thin) rarely placed
3 13 CM BD (my go to pieces)
3 16 CM bd (my go to pieces)
1 19 cm BD (use for anchors andor V threads)I rearly place on lead
1 22 cm BD (use for anchors andor V threads)I rearly place on lead
1 12 cm grivel 360 (my go to pieces)
1 16 cm grivel 360 (my go to pieces)

Just my opinion here...before you go spending money on screws.

Have you ice climbed before? I'd recommend doing some top roping etc to see if you like it. It's pretty pricey!! Also if you haven't ice climbed I wouldn't jump into leading, there isn't really much "room for error".

Since you don't seem to have much familiarity with the gear, it sounds like you don't have much experience. I'd really recommend getting some miles in before you start leading as it's a pretty dangerous sport.

Not trying to be judgemental and if I'm wrong in my internet assesment my apologies. It's not like sport climbing where you can buy a rack rope and jump into the sport. You can jack yourself up bigtime.

Again this is just personal opinion.

Scott McMahon wrote:You can jack yourself up bigtime.

I agree with everything Scott has said here.

For crampons, I have the Petzl m10's, which unfortunately have been discontinued!! Which really sucks because they are great crampons. Never tried the Lynx, but I've heard good things. My next pair will be Rambos, but the m10's have a lot of life left.

Scott hit the nail on the head. Ice climbing is very dangerous especially as a newcomer. I climbed with borrowed gear and seasoned vets for my first two years to understand what type of gear I needed. When I purchased my first set up it was VERY expensive and quite an investment. Do some climbing with someone else before you buy screws, and if that partner dosent have any, maybe neither of you are ready for leading yet. Ice kills rookies and preople who have been climbing a whole lifetime, stack the odds in your favor and dont get hurt. Good luck.

Man... Eff ice climbing. Your really wanna freeze your balls off all day while using midevil devices to hack your way up water molecules that recently became solid only due to temperature?

EFF That! Spend that money on strippers and a trip south when the weather gets to cold for climbing on rocks at your lattitude.

Difference between rocks and ice... Rocks form when silica, aluminum, oxygen and other elements are cemented together by various geologic processes that take millions of years. So... rocks are hard.

Ice forms when water molecules can't bounce around anymore because the temp is too cold (0C), but they aren't in a permanent state of solidity and will change to their liquid or vapor state VERY FAST.

Rocks don't vaporize under STP so again... rocks are hard... just saying.

Keep the conversation going, Luke. You are providing the ice climbers who are feverishly waiting for it to get cold with some entertainment.

So, is Lincoln Falls in yet?

I agree with scott to an extent. I bought my first set of tools 5 years ago and just bought my first screws this week. (BD express 13cm and 16cm)

If I were you if you already have tools, I'd buy boots and crampons that you can use for glacier work and some ice and do some top roping/climb with some other folks. After a season or 2 you'll know if you really want to sink money into this and you'll have a good idea of what you want.

I have a few friends that have climbed ice several time before! Im going to go out with them a lot before I just jump in to leading. I was originally thinking about just starting off leading but thanks to you guys I reconsidered that idea Hahaha thanks! Im thinking about getting a couple screws to start out with though anyway. Probably bd turbos! And still not sure on the crampons

Just getting some like one or two screws for anchors and just start off top rope. My friend has a pair of asolo ice boots not sure on the name though.

Luke Deurmier wrote:I have a few friends that have climbed ice several time before! Im going to go out with them a lot before I just jump in to leading. I was originally thinking about just starting off leading but thanks to you guys I reconsidered that idea Hahaha thanks! Im thinking about getting a couple screws to start out with though anyway. Probably bd turbos! And still not sure on the crampons

What boots do you have? That will influence (likely limit) your crampon choice. Plastics, you'll want fully rigid crampons. Anything else, and you'll want the more popular semi-rigid models. Grivel G12 or G14, Petzl Sarken, BD Sabretooth are all more "hybrid" models, appropriate for ice climbing or more moderate climbing. If you already have a pair of 10-point crampons (e.g. Grivel G10, BD Contact), choosing a more aggressive crampon (e.g. Grivel G22, Petzl Dartwin or Lynx, BD Cyborg) can be a good choice.

As I stated earlier, my favorite is the Lynx/Petzl M10.

Oh yeah I'm with Stephan on this one...m10's are the bomb. If you could get a good used pair of them you won't be disappointed. I use mine on Sportiva Nepal Evo's with a perfect fit, and know a few people who love the same combo.

Also, Luke where do you live?

Luke Deurmier wrote:Just getting some like one or two screws for anchors and just start off top rope. My friend has a pair of asolo ice boots not sure on the name though.

If you use ice screws for top rope anchor, please make sure you check the screws every time you top out.

Ben Botelho wrote:Oh yeah I'm with Stephan on this one...m10's are the bomb. If you could get a good used pair of them you won't be disappointed. I use mine on Sportiva Nepal Evo's with a perfect fit, and know a few people who love the same combo. Also, Luke where do you live?

i live in the black hills of south dakota but will be going off to bozeman(hopefully) next fall for college. we have spearfish canyon with like on water fall thats worthy of ice climbing, but i hear that the eastern part of the state people over flow their grain silos and climb those! how much were yous sportivas? and what would be a good price on a bair of m10's?

divnamite wrote: If you use ice screws for top rope anchor, please make sure you check the screws every time you top out.

+1 and do some research on ice placements!! Don't just plug and play.

Two things:

1. You want BD Express screws not Turbos.
2. For crampons, Lynx are the best all around modular crampons as Stephan said. If I were to buy a new pair of crampons now that's what I'd buy. They have pretty nice anti-bot plates (important!) and also come with a crampon puch I think.

Lastly, +1 whatever Randy W said...

Luke Deurmier wrote: i live in the black hills of south dakota but will be going off to bozeman(hopefully) next fall for college. we have spearfish canyon with like on water fall thats worthy of ice climbing, but i hear that the eastern part of the state people over flow their grain silos and climb those! how much were yous sportivas? and what would be a good price on a bair of m10's?

Nepals run $510 new. They're often on sale somewhere, and they come up used on these forums regularly. I've seen them used here anywhere from $200-$350.

The Petzl M10's are no longer in production (the Lynx is the replacement). Depending on how good of condition they're in, expect to pay at least $100.