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Big gear in the South East?

Original Post
Javier L · · Asheville, NC · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 636

I have a decent rack including the old BD C4 # 4.5, 5 and a set of tricams up to # 6 or so. Where can I use them down here? I've been hoarding these for a couple years now and I need to use em' or lose em'.

Sam Stephens · · PORTLAND, OR · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 1,090

Command Performance, Mommas Squeeze Box, Crescent Crack... I'm sure there's more but that's the first three I can think of at the New.

There are actually a good bit off OWs at the Red too.

Chad Wagner · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 75

Get those big boys out! Want to try levitation? Go to the red. Pistol ridge has Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon. Indian Creek(red) has Better Red then Dead, and Country Lovin. Purple Valley has Burden of Dreams. Muscle Beach has a lot of classics. If you need a partner for the pain let me know. I could use one. No one wants to climb that shit where I'm from.

Javier L · · Asheville, NC · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 636

The New is definitely in my sights, thanks. As for the Red, in all honesty, if I make the drive out there I'll probably be clipping bolts, eating Miguel's, and throwing wobblers like everyone else (so I hear). I've only been once but from Asheville (moving there soon) it'll definetely be closer, so who knows. If I get out there I'll definitely keep you in mind.

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

Ha! Crescent Crack. Remember the old guide book that said that this could be led with small gear? I fell for it. Nothing like unintentional soloing! Better have more than one 5 and 6 for that unless you want to walk it up a bunch.

I also liked Crack a Smile at Endless. Can use a five and six on that.

James Arnold · · Chattanooga · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 55

Speaking of the New I have been wanting to get to S. Nuttall, for starters on The Abyss ..."the most intimidating 5.10 pitch you've ever seen..." then working over to A-holes and Elbows (wide but has some bolts) but can never get anyone to have half an inkling to get out there, justifiably I suppose.

I should have some time in the fall to get up there and/or the Red. I have tried to organize an RRG "Bloodfest" for 2 or 3 years but no one answers phones/pms/txts or is at Miguels (mysteriously disappearing) when it comes to punching out wide on a specific day...Chad, Javier, anyone else, down?

Agree with Jake, keep the bigs, never know when you might get the big bug.

nbrown · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 7,719

Hey Javier, feel free to give me a shout when you get in the asheville area. Haven't been in a while, but I have spent a fair amount of time on the wide stuff at the New. Also done some fun wide stuff in BSF, which is only about 3 hours away (as opposed to the new @ 4+).

Javier L · · Asheville, NC · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 636

Thanks everyone. I've been thinking of losing the gear and now I'm thinking of getting more, haha. I'll wait and see how it goes on a few of these routes at the New. I feel fairly comfortable at the 10 grade but I've not done any OW. At least I can't remember any OW routes under my belt. Now I have a tick list to work on! I'm taking this September off between jobs and I think a few days can definitely be dedicated to OW. Anyone else free?

Nathan, I'll definitely hit you up when I'm out there. Thanks.

Sam Stephens · · PORTLAND, OR · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 1,090
csproul wrote:Ha! Crescent Crack. Remember the old guide book that said that this could be led with small gear? I fell for it. Nothing like unintentional soloing! Better have more than one 5 and 6 for that unless you want to walk it up a bunch. I also liked Crack a Smile at Endless. Can use a five and six on that.
Crack a Smile is tons of fun!
William Rhyne · · Casper, Wyoming · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 135

Javier whats going on buddy. Im into the wide thing too. I have been looking at butterbean, (10a) stuck in another dimension ( 11a ) and optical illusion (11c) I havent been up any of these yet it just looked to me to have some wide sections on them. Ill be up there in 2 weeks maybe we'll run into each other.

Javier L · · Asheville, NC · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 636

Hey Will, do you have any free time in September? I'm free most of it and looking to climb mid week. I'm also planning on going to the NRG Craggin Classic. Are you going? Once I settle in Asheville I'll probably be looking to climb out at Rumbling and Looking Glass.

Chad Wagner · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 75

Ya James, I'm down for a blood fest. Lets link up for some fall madness. Im supporting doubles in the OW size and possibly triples by then. Looking forward to it.

Javier L · · Asheville, NC · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 636

I'll be at the New from the 12th through the 17th or so. Anyone else going to be there?

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245

Stuck in another dimension is sick, and maybe doable with your rack. Dont let the grade turn you off. If you can get off the ground, you can clip the chains.

Also, get on the womb and dum dee dum dum at LG. not much offwidth, but it feels like a lot.

Good luck with the time off and move. Jealous. Tell the raleigh crowd i say whats up!

Javier L · · Asheville, NC · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 636

Hey Ryan, good to hear from you. Will mentioned "stuck in another dimension" too so it's on my list. If you're ever get back out here hit me up.

davidbr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 190

Would anyone be up for some wide fun this coming week? Think I've got Sunday, Monday, Tuesday (Sept. the 23rd, 24th, 25th) free. Either the New or the Red...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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