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Routes in J-Crack Slab Area
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Adventures of B-Dog, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Alien Algorithm T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Campground, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cave Exit, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cavity, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Endless Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fascist Drill in the West T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Femp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Happy Camper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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J-Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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KOAlien T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Loose Ends T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mission Accomplished T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Mission Impossible T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Monkey on a String S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pear Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pizza Face T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Stretch Marks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Thindependence T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Thinstone T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Turn the Page T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Unnamed 5.9 TR TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Visual Aids T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Weekend Warrior S,TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Hurley and Rearick, 1975 |
| Page Views: | 4,754 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Sofranko on Aug 10, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
This route is on the right side of the book and is marked by the crack that begins about 15 up and then fades out again about 70 feet up the cliff. There is a line of old bolts just to the right of the crack (Pizza Face).
Begin to the right of the crack. Scramble up and clip the first bolt (new) on Pizza Face, then make the crux move left to get established in the crack. Work your way up the crystalline crack until it starts to fade. I got a couple TCUs in here, then headed up and right across the face towards the last bolt on Pizza Face. This bolt is an antique, and should probably be replaced. Head due right to the crack/corner, and follow that (5.7) to the sling anchor. It is a 100 foot rappel from here to the ground. The route does continue, but by this point you've climbed the 'Endless' crack. ~150'
Per Errett Allen: Rather than stop at the slings mentioned as the top of pitch one, you can continue climbing 50 feet higher in the dihedral which allows you to belay on a big comfortable sandy ledge behind a large block.
P2. From the sandy ledge, climb up and left across slab and disconnected cracks to an obvious straight-in fist crack. Ascend this crack, then climb left and up across a few disjointed cracks. Make a few easy face moves left into a left-facing dihedral and follow it to the belay ledge at the top of the crux pitch of Femp -- 5.7. This pitch is wandering and mostly uninteresting but the fist crack is sweet. ~150'
P3. Make face moves out right toward a tiny pine tree on the lower left side of Kite Slab and enter a beautiful clean thin crack just above the pine (RP & small stoppers). Ascend this crack to a stance -- 5.9. From here there are two options. ~75'
P3a. Continue climbing up and right to a break in the roof above, which can be pulled through on a wedged block -- 9+ and belay above the roof. ~130'
P3b. Follow the crack system up and left, do some face moves to the roof when the crack peters out, move left and climb through the break in the roof band into a right-slanting flake and chimney system (this is the finish to Femp). Belay on a large ledge about 30-40 feet up the flake/chimney system -- 5.7.
P4. Do short and easy summit pitch ending near the Cave Exits. ~75'
Begin to the right of the crack. Scramble up and clip the first bolt (new) on Pizza Face, then make the crux move left to get established in the crack. Work your way up the crystalline crack until it starts to fade. I got a couple TCUs in here, then headed up and right across the face towards the last bolt on Pizza Face. This bolt is an antique, and should probably be replaced. Head due right to the crack/corner, and follow that (5.7) to the sling anchor. It is a 100 foot rappel from here to the ground. The route does continue, but by this point you've climbed the 'Endless' crack. ~150'
Per Errett Allen: Rather than stop at the slings mentioned as the top of pitch one, you can continue climbing 50 feet higher in the dihedral which allows you to belay on a big comfortable sandy ledge behind a large block.
P2. From the sandy ledge, climb up and left across slab and disconnected cracks to an obvious straight-in fist crack. Ascend this crack, then climb left and up across a few disjointed cracks. Make a few easy face moves left into a left-facing dihedral and follow it to the belay ledge at the top of the crux pitch of Femp -- 5.7. This pitch is wandering and mostly uninteresting but the fist crack is sweet. ~150'
P3. Make face moves out right toward a tiny pine tree on the lower left side of Kite Slab and enter a beautiful clean thin crack just above the pine (RP & small stoppers). Ascend this crack to a stance -- 5.9. From here there are two options. ~75'
P3a. Continue climbing up and right to a break in the roof above, which can be pulled through on a wedged block -- 9+ and belay above the roof. ~130'
P3b. Follow the crack system up and left, do some face moves to the roof when the crack peters out, move left and climb through the break in the roof band into a right-slanting flake and chimney system (this is the finish to Femp). Belay on a large ledge about 30-40 feet up the flake/chimney system -- 5.7.
P4. Do short and easy summit pitch ending near the Cave Exits. ~75'
Photos
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