Mountain Project Logo

Light Cordelette Options?

Original Post
Gold Plated Rocket Pony · · Colorado · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 96

I've always used a 7mm or 8mm 20ft length of rope for my multi-pitch trad anchors. It seems rather bulky and heavy when I've already got enough gear dangling off me. Anyone have something better they use? I've seen other options out there but wanted to get some feedback from others.

Cor · · Sandbagging since 1989 · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,445

5mil titan cord. super light, super duper strong. also stiff.

T.C. · · Whittier, NC · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 0

something lighter? How about the rope?

TC

Mike · · Phoenix · Joined May 2006 · Points: 2,615

No cordelette will be as light as no cordelette.

That said, Wild Country was making a skinny dyneema version for a while, and (I think) Mountain Tools still sells webolettes. Check them out.

Kenan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 1,237
Cor wrote:5mil titan cord. super light, super duper strong. also stiff.
+1

I've been using these for a while now and really like em. Definitely lighter and less bulky than cordelettes. And the stiffness goes away a bit over time.
Gold Plated Rocket Pony · · Colorado · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 96

I'll check out the titan. Gracias.

Brian C. · · Longmont, CO · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 1,100

The Web-o-lette is pretty cool. I have a 12 foot one and have really enjoyed it and it's much lighter than a cordolette.

Copperhead · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 0
Kenan wrote: +1 I've been using these for a while now and really like em. Definitely lighter and less bulky than cordelettes. And the stiffness goes away a bit over time.
+2

Just use a tripple fisherman's. Heavier than the rope, but it gives you lots of flexibility, especially if you aren't swapping leads or (horrors) climbing in a group of three. Can always be used to sling something big if you need to mid pitch too.
Gargano · · Arizona · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 1,535

240cm Dyneema/Dynex/Spectra Runner.

The bartack is easier to manage than any knot, it's less bulky, and it doesn't kink.

Sirius · · Oakland, CA · Joined Nov 2003 · Points: 660

Lead rope with either atomic knott or elongated butterfly to more or less equalize. No cordalette. If you're worried about eating up rope, climb on a 70m.

JohnWesely Wesely · · Lander · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 585
Sirius wrote:Lead rope with either atomic knott or elongated butterfly to more or less equalize. No cordalette. If you're worried about eating up rope, climb on a 70m.
I don't use a cordalette, but I would much rather bring 20 feet of 6 or 7 mil cord than 10m or climbing rope.
Cor · · Sandbagging since 1989 · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,445

a web-o-lette is fine for cragging, but if you have to bail...
a cordlette is far superior.

shit you can do a loop with a dbl. fishermans knot,
or use a edk knot, or leave it untied and do clove hitches

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,241
Mike wrote:No cordelette will be as light as no cordelette. That said, Wild Country was making a skinny dyneema version for a while, and (I think) Mountain Tools still sells webolettes. Check them out.
Webolettes are essentially half the material and pretty damn light. I have two and love 'em. They are my go to for anchor building.

Mountain tools is a cool company too, great packs and other equipment.

Cor wrote:a web-o-lette is fine for cragging, but if you have to bail... a cordlette is far superior.
That's true too.
Sarah K · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 80

Two points regarding the tech cord to consider. First, it can cut extremely easily. A friend of mine was using it and it cut through on a top rope and it was almost brand new. So be careful about any edges (his wasn't that sharp). Second, there isn't much stretch, so be careful to avoid any factor 2 falls onto it.

Kenan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 1,237
Sarah K wrote:Two points regarding the tech cord to consider. First, it can cut extremely easily. A friend of mine was using it and it cut through on a top rope and it was almost brand new. So be careful about any edges (his wasn't that sharp). Second, there isn't much stretch, so be careful to avoid any factor 2 falls onto it.
I think these are valid points actually... But if you're using the tech/titan cords for building anchors on multipitch climbs (which is how I'm using them and it sounds like the OP's intent as well), these are not likely to be significant factors. As far as cutting, absolutely don't have them running over sharp edges. Good advice for cordalettes too. As far as stretch, true that they aren't intended to be dynamic, but again are cordalettes really? I imagine that cordalettes have a bit more stretch.. But if you're taking a fall where the difference in stretch between a 5mm Titan cord and a 7mm cordalette is some kind of deciding factor, I'd say you've got bigger problems coming your way quickly.
Brad W · · San Diego · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 75

Titan cord or the long mammut dyneema sling. Both are pretty light and compact. Only downsides compared to accessory cord as far as im concerned is that you can't really chop it up on a climb if you need to. I've used both and like them.

I don't buy the dynamic material requirement for anchors. Just anchor in with the rope and don't factor 2.

John Husky · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2011 · Points: 5

I actually carry 2. I have a 8mm cordalette that I can cut down for bail slings, or backing up a shite fixed anchor. I also have a 4' spectra sling. So far the several ounces of weight has not been the single deciding factor in me falling to my death or worse, not sending that sweet proj.

I always tell my partners, when they're trying to pare the rack down to a 70's alpine rack, that I've never had to bail on a route because the rack was too damn big.

Superclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 1,310

Yes to the titan cord.

doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 269

I just carry a homemade "rabbit ears" made from a 6mm cord. Just get a 12-15 ft of cord and tie rabbit ears with an overhand knot. Shorter, lighter and way more versatile than a cordelette. If you measure it right, it can be used as a friction knot and a leg loop in one piece (glacier style).

Auto-X Fil · · NEPA and Upper Jay, NY · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 50

I love the spectra sling, like the Mammut one:

moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/…

They are much lighter than cord, even 5/5.5mm Titan, and easier to handle.

Using the rope is great, but you often need some anchor material. It's also tough to leave your rope behind as an anchor to bail on.

I am often in guide-mode, leading every pitch. In those cases it's tough to use the rope to anchor. Or, we are leading in blocks on winter alpine climbs to keep us both warmer. For just a couple ounces I'll bring the extra-long sling instead of using the rope on those cases.

My cordalettes have been retired to TR rigging duty, where my old 7mm Sterling cord works great.

M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911

never have and never will use a cordalette. I once got one with a rope purchase and it makes a great dog leash. even if I'm not switching leads I usually tie in with the lead rope and belay off of it and/or some runners. clove hitches come undone quickly if time is a concern and if you are not switching leads do you really want to carry 2 cordalettes?

just buy some extra runners and keep them on the harness specifically for belays.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Light Cordelette Options?"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.