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French's Doughnut
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 3.3 from 3
votes
Routes in French's Dome
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[Redacted] S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Alpha Centauri S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Balloon Knot S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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BSD S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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China Side S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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China Syndrome S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crankenstein S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dark Side (AKA The Siege), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Dark Syndrome S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dirty Deeds (aka Silver Streak) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Do it Again S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Emerald City S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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French's Doughnut S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Giant's Direct S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Giant's Staircase S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Golden Shower S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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High Voltage, AKA 'Rhoid Rage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Jackie Chan S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Low Voltage S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Oz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Philanthropy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Psoriasis S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Pump-Lanthropy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Pump-O-Rama S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Road Face S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Road Head S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Road Kill S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Road Rage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Static Cling S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Straw Man S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tin Tangle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Uncle Rick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Yellow Brick Road T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Matt Spohn Aug. 2011 (Bolted by Ryan Palo 2009) |
| Page Views: | 3,490 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | peachy spohn on Aug 24, 2011 |
| Admins: | Roberta Zouain, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Description
A very interesting and pumpy route that links up a lot of French's harder routes. The crux move comes in the middle, with an off-balance lock off and high step, but the beginning is powerful and the end of High Voltage is the redpoint crux, containing big moves to decent holds. The rock is a bit crumbly in spots, but for the most part good when it needs to be, and it will only get better. There are good shakes too, so use them wisely, because the pump will catch up if you don't.
Location
Begin up the Dark Side (the Siege) and start traversing right after 2nd clip into China Man and then keep traversing, crossing Jackie Chan, BSD, Road Kill, Road Face, moving always upwards until you end on High Voltage, clipping the last three of its bolts. (The shiny bolts are the ones added in order to connect everything together, so look for them.)
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