Type: Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Scott Salzer and Erik Johnson, 5/20/2012
Page Views: 5,341 total · 37/month
Shared By: Erik J. on May 29, 2012 · Updates
Admins: GRK, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route


34 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Four main pitches, one belay move and another really short pitch to get to the tippy top. 5.7, 5.11, 5.9, 5.10, 5.5 (15'). Big pockets. The crux is boulder problem length.

The first pitch (5.7) is an approach pitch that starts just right of the block/cave, goes up, then trends a bit left to a good ledge. The second pitch (5.11) has a tricky face-climbing crux a few bolts up (on excellent rock), followed by easier terrain to the anchor. The belay move pitch (The Cockles Traverse) involves climbing up and left through a few bolts to another anchor, then walking left to a pair of belay bolts. The third pitch (5.9) has some hollow rock, so be careful what you pull/step on. The fourth pitch (5.10) heads straight up, then follows a shallow right-leaning corner to an anchor. If you want to summit (very cool), do a short fifth pitch (5.5) up and right; there are good bolts on the summit ridge.

See the photo and topo for more info.

Location Suggest change

To get to the Evolution Fin (we just made that up, if there is already a name for it great: what is it?) take the climbers track left a hundred yards before the Main Area, 50 feet before the small rock downclimb in the trail. Keep going sidehill and uphill until the path basically deadends at the base of the climb. Base of climb is approximately 1/2 a mile after turning left away from the Main Area (Lat: 45.63473718, Long: -110.89825879). There is a large block leaning against the wall just to the left of where the climb starts. See photo and topo.

Protection Suggest change

All bolts and bolted anchors with rappel chains. Pitches 2,3,4 have 11 bolts each and the anchor.

If you top out, don't try to rappel past the anchor 15' down from the summit anchor (horrendous rope drag over the summit choss), instead do a 15' rap, an 85', an 80', a 30', a 90' and a 90' (or, after reversing the traverse, rappel to the anchor atop Tethys, rappel to the ledge, then walk skier's right down to the ground and left back to the base). A 60m rope works great, just be careful. Again, see topo.

Photos

loading