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Elevation: 960 ft
GPS: 37.90698, -120.5582
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Tom Addison on Feb 1, 2011 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Warning Access Issue: LOCK THE GATE. Private property with access easement held by Access Fund allowing climbing. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

****If climbers violate the terms of the easement (for example, by leaving a gate open, or bringing dogs onto the property), that jeopardizes our ability to climb here.**** The first routes at Jailhouse were established ground-up by Dave Schultz, then of Yosemite. Dave had the vision to look past the chossy nature of the overhanging blocky crag, and see its great potential for steep sport climbing. Others, particularly Tom Herbert, Todd Graham, John Scott, Troy Corliss, Justen Sjong, and Brad Johnson, have also been primary developers.

The owners of the property were initially alarmed by the climbing, and closed the cliff in 1992. The Access Fund got the cliff re-opened, but with a number of conditions from the owners, including the longstanding 'no publicitiy' policy. In late 2010, the current owners graciously have signed an access easement allowing climbing on their property with certain conditions, as discussed in the access box above.

Jailhouse offers steep, blocky, volcanic sport climbing on basalt. Routes are in the shade in the morning, and in the sun in the afternoon. The low elevation crag is best in the winter (although many routes seep given California's winter rains) or early spring/late fall. It's much too hot in the summer unless you are a reptile. The quality climbing here starts at 12d and currently goes to 14+, although there are some limited easier routes. The two easiest routes at the cliff are frequently closed for nesting raptors. The easiest route is 11c, but there are only 3 routes easier than 12b. Many routes, particularly the many extensions, require a 70m rope. Nearly all routes have fixed draws. Most will find kneepads and well-developed stamina helpful. 

There is a pit toilet near the approach trail, about 5-10 minutes from the parking, but you have to bring your own TP and you MUST pack it out. 

Getting There Suggest change

Jailhouse is in western Tuolumne County above the Stanislaus River between Lake Tulloch and New Melones Reservoirs. The only legal approach to the cliff is through a locked gate off O'Byrnes Ferry Road west of the prison, but before the road drops and winds south into the hairpin turn down to the lake. Do not try to enter the gate marked Shotgun Creek Estates; this is not the correct gate and is private property. The correct gate is west of this gate, and is best found by following the detailed directions on the Access Fund website. Also reference the site for current conditions or restrictions. 

After you park in the lot and close the third gate, hop on the dirt road and go right after you pass the creek to get to the crag. 

Repeat, if climbers violate the terms of the easement (for example, by leaving a gate open, or bringing dogs onto the property), that jeopardizes our ability to climb here. TO CLIMB AT JAILHOUSE, YOU NEED THE GATE CODE. The code for the lock is here

109 Total Climbs

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Location: Jailhouse Rock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Jailhouse Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 27
Whipping Boy
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 7
Pulp Friction
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 19
Iron Junkie
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 9
Electric Chair
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 11
Insecurity
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 17
Misdemeanor
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 42
Soap on a Rope
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 27
Fugitive
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 14
Cell Block
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 6
Alcatraz
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 8
Haul of Justice
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 5
Pardon
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 10
Jailbait
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 5
Forced Entry
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 6
The Juice
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Whipping Boy
 27
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Pulp Friction
 7
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Iron Junkie
 19
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Electric Chair
 9
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Insecurity
 11
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Misdemeanor
 17
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Soap on a Rope
 42
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Fugitive
 27
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Cell Block
 14
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Alcatraz
 6
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Haul of Justice
 8
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Pardon
 5
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Jailbait
 10
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Forced Entry
 5
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
The Juice
 6
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
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