Mountain Project Logo

Gunks- Disco Death March....

Original Post
Ryan Chelstowski · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 155

I am looking for some closure beta on Disco Death March in the gunks. Dick Williams guide says "Start 5 feet right of Big Chimney, Diagonal up right to base of obvious off-width crack, and follow crack to ledge at base of chimney". But, recently I was told that it actually starts underneath the big roof facing the traps trail, and you have to traverse the off-width about 15 feet left and then continue the off-width up to the ledge/rap station.
Would appreciate the beta since it is not drawn in on the guide and can not find info online.
cheers

-sp · · East-Coast · Joined May 2007 · Points: 75
Chelsey870 wrote:I am looking for some closure beta on Disco Death March in the gunks. Dick Williams guide says "Start 5 feet right of Big Chimney, Diagonal up right to base of obvious off-width crack, and follow crack to ledge at base of chimney". But, recently I was told that it actually starts underneath the big roof facing the traps trail, and you have to traverse the off-width about 15 feet left and then continue the off-width up to the ledge/rap station. Would appreciate the beta since it is not drawn in on the guide and can not find info online. cheers
I know zero about the climb but it looks like at least one person thinks the traverse is part of it.
big gear required...
burlap submariner · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 170

its very obvious from the trail, You can get by with 2 large green bd's, contrary to the video you do not need to shove your knee into the flake on the traverse, there is a little footy ledges if you are larger than 5'5, the real meat and potatoes comes in making the moves up to the belay.

Ryan Chelstowski · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 155

I thought from looking at it that it would take bigger than a #6 which is why we backed out of trying it. But now that I know the higher up you plug the better, I can't wait to get on it
Thanks for the very helpful beta!

-sp · · East-Coast · Joined May 2007 · Points: 75
burlap submariner wrote:its very obvious from the trail, You can get by with 2 large green bd's, contrary to the video you do not need to shove your knee into the flake on the traverse, there is a little footy ledges if you are larger than 5'5, the real meat and potatoes comes in making the moves up to the belay.
But the shuffling knee-bar looks so cool...
ntableman · · Hoboken, NJ/New Platz, NY · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 15

The video is exactly hoe we did it this weekend. The beta is good. I am less than 5 8 and I could not mange it with out getting way up into the horizontal. One knee bar for cam placement. My buddies nailed it. I had to get a little help around the corner for a while and then ended up laybacking the last section. I was promptly scolded for not using proper off-width technique, but oh well!

If you like this kind of climbing, do this!!! It was awesome.

EFS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 160
-sp wrote: I know zero about the climb but it looks like at least one person thinks the traverse is part of it. big gear required...
the last person i saw in a crack like that doing a knee jam ended up stuck and shat themself...... ;)
Matt Rhodin · · Golden, CO · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 190

Can you get away with a BD 6 and a 5 on this?

Christian Fracchia · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 80
Matt Rhodin wrote:Can you get away with a BD 6 and a 5 on this?
Yes, but the 5 won't fit until the end of the traverse. It's nicer to have two 6's so you can leave one near the start, then shuffle the other one along.
Matt Rhodin · · Golden, CO · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 190

Cool thanks. Now begins the search for a second #6

Christian Fracchia · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 80
Matt Rhodin wrote:Cool thanks. Now begins the search for a second #6
are you local? You can borrow mine physicsfrac @ gmail

Just to let you know the crux is not getting the second #6 though :)
Michael Spiesbach · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 105

I sent this last weekend so I can assure you that you want a second #6 cam.. You can get a good cam at the start and then the end of the traverse.. YOu may be able to reach a #5 placement form the end of the travers but it's debatable.. In the middle of the travers the crack is too large to get a #6 where you could reach. Reaching the good #6 at the start from the end would also be really hard. The travers wasn't super hard but it was by now means a giveaway and it felt like it wouldn't be that hard to pop off of it.

Get two 6's.. and send that shit! It's wicked fun though I almost puked at the top...

Matt Rhodin · · Golden, CO · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 190
Christian Fracchia wrote: are you local? You can borrow mine physicsfrac @ gmail Just to let you know the crux is not getting the second #6 though :)
I'm coming from Syracuse. I'll shoot you an email.
Matt Rhodin · · Golden, CO · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 190
crakatoa wrote:I sent this last weekend so I can assure you that you want a second #6 cam.. You can get a good cam at the start and then the end of the traverse.. YOu may be able to reach a #5 placement form the end of the travers but it's debatable.. In the middle of the travers the crack is too large to get a #6 where you could reach. Reaching the good #6 at the start from the end would also be really hard. The travers wasn't super hard but it was by now means a giveaway and it felt like it wouldn't be that hard to pop off of it. Get two 6's.. and send that shit! It's wicked fun though I almost puked at the top...
Nice! And thanks for the beta. I'm stoked to get on it.
Michael Spiesbach · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 105
Matt Rhodin wrote: Nice! And thanks for the beta. I'm stoked to get on it.
I should mention I'm 5'6" soooo if your taller you could sink the cam deep in the crack where it will fit better :( #shortpeopleproblems

Let us know how the climb goes on monday
Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

Is everyone clear about the suitability of these BD cams, old style vs new? A new 6 is just a fraction of an inch larger than the pre-thumb loop 5. AFAIK there are no current cams equivalent to the old 6.

Michael Spiesbach · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 105

To clarify I was using new style #6's

Matt Rhodin · · Golden, CO · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 190

Coming in at 6' 2" I had no issues bumping the cams high into the crack on the traverse. For me, the traverse felt around 5.7. Really nice foot holds all the way out to the arete. But once I got situated and tried to move up in the offwidth, I got shut down. I took a couple short falls and then just down climbed and cleaned on my way. Definitely need to refine that offwidth technique! I tried to chicken wing up but it didn't work out too well. Looking back I wish I tried some different methods, but oh well! I'll get back at it sooner or later.

Michael Spiesbach · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 105

you tall bastard.. I'm only 5'6" so I can barley get my fingers on the underling from the foot rail.. I had the smear my feet high and underling the last 5 feet tot he arête..

Keep trying.. the pro is super solid on the O.W section.. just keep trying to get parts to stick in till it works ..

rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847
Gunkiemike wrote:Is everyone clear about the suitability of these BD cams, old style vs new? A new 6 is just a fraction of an inch larger than the pre-thumb loop 5. AFAIK there are no current cams equivalent to the old 6.
There never was an old #6
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
Post a Reply to "Gunks- Disco Death March...."

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.