The Original Route

By far the most popular route on the formation, this route offers generally good rock in a spectacular setting. There are some dirty sections and climbers should think of this as more of an alpine route than a Yosemite style free route. It also has several pitches where protection is sparse and poor but this is generally on easier terrain.

Traditionally the route receives a rating of 5.11c however many climbers including this poster believe the grade to be much lower.

Pitch 1: 30m 5.8
Climb up broken and somewhat vegetated rock.

Pitch 2: 30m 5.8
Continue up the crack system and out right underneath a rotten black lichen encrusted roof.

Pitch 3: 30m 5.9
Move up and left arching up under a bulge clipping a few old bolts. Belay at bolts on a large ledge.

Pitch 4: 40m 5.9+
Climb a crack back left to a ledge. Either climb a chimney with wedged blocks inside or an overhanging hand-fist crack to a steep section. Pull over an overhang on good holds and mantle onto a ledge with 3 bolts.

Pitch 5: 50m 5.9
Move up a chimney with face holds inside. At top of the short chimney move out left on face holds and climb on face features between two cracks. At the top of this pitch pull the 'Blob Mantle' of grass and dirt onto a ledge and belay.

Pitch 6: 50m 5.10d
This crux pitch is much easier than once touted. Continue up 5.9 cracks to under a large roof. Move right out the handcrack in the roof, turn the lip and continue up a well protected fingercrack. Belay at a good ledge.

Pitch 7: 30m 5.10+
Move up a corner to a massive roof. Again move right underclinging a widening crack. Turn the corner of the crack and continue up a slab to a bolted anchor.

Pitch 8: 45m 5.10+
Climb up to a wide ear type feature with bolts. Move right around the ear on slick rock (several old bolts). Continue up and traverse back left to bolts on a good ledge.

Pitch 9: 25m Easy 5th class
Move the belay horizontally left and slightly up to a the base of a 5.9+ corner.

Pitch 10: 20m 5.9+
Climb a vegetated but nice crack to a bolted anchor on a ledge.

Pitch 11-14: 5.9R
From the belay traverse left and access a lower angle groove. Continue up this groove system for about 500ft to where the wall becomes steeper. Much of the climbing through these pitches is run-out!

Pitch 15-17: 5.9
There are several options here with the easiest being to generally traverse up and rightward.

Begin at an obvious weakness in the center of the east face leading up to an obvious rotten black rock roof.

Follow same as other Esfinge routes.

A typical rack of doubles to 3 inches with optional singles to 5 inches. Most anchors are bolted but there are some natural anchors required. Many slings and a few double length slings are required.