Upper Exum Belay Strategies

It sounds like the Upper Ex has lots of 4th class scrambling between 5.4 pitches.

Assuming we want to be roped for the Step-Across, Golden Stair, Friction Pitch, and V-Pitch: Do those who have done this feel that it goes better taking the time to un-rope and solo in- between, simul, or just run it out on long pitches?

When my partner and I climbed it last summer, we pitched out the Lower Exum (recommended if you're up to it) till Wallstreet. After that we easily and confidently soloed to the base of the Friction pitch. We were climbing really fast, so I don't remember the details, but I seem to remember that part being really easy and usually just 10-15ft of climbing until you'd reach a nice ledge then repeat.

Once we reached the Friction Pitch, the climbing became a bit exposed so we opted to bring out 30m of rope and simul-climb the rest with 2 WC ropeman devices. This system seemed to work well for us, but I wouldn't recommend it if you don't have much experience simulclimbing.

Just did it a couple days ago. Short rope style seemed most fitting to us and we moved a lot faster than our friends who stopped to rope up/unrope. Not sure how efficient it'd be if you haven't practiced that kind of thing though. We never had more than half the rope uncoiled between us, even for the short sections we belayed (step around and friction pitch). The route doesn't seem very conducive to simulclimbing (at least with any significant amount of rope between the two of you) due to potential rope drag issues and the fact that there are long stretches where its easy and most people wouldn't place any pro.

I'd rope up for the Step, the V-Pitch, and possible the Friction pitch. Solo everything else.

Did it last week also. I halved my 60m for the step across to wall street. Pitched out the golden stair to obvious ledge. Solo up thru the wind tunnel to the friction pitch then pitched out the friction pitch. Solo to v pitch then pitched that out. Then solo to summit. I did bring double ropes which were a pain in the ass on the climb but handy for rap. Only used climbing shoes for friction pitch, approach shoes were more than adequate for remainder. Brought a full double rack and literally placed a dozen pieces on the whole climb. Single rack of cams seems to be adequate. Also don't underestimate the O.S. descent, it's loose and shitty. Have fun!

Thanks for the responses!

I was thinking about a skinny 60m half to use as a single, which is my go-to setup for easy alpine. But, I have a 38m light single and matching tag line, which sound like they might be just the ticket. I use them for winter climbs a lot, where the ice steps are short, and it's nice to have less rope to deal with. Plus, they would handle the O-S raps perfectly.

About the rack...there's a rock that you can sling just before the Step - look for it; it's easy to find. If you sling that then you won't need the #2 to protect that move. The rest of the route can easily be done with a set of nuts. Bring two cams if you really want to sew it up.