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Lumpy Link Ups

Original Post
Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 888

Hey All,

Heading to the Denver area next weekend the 16th-19th, and am looking to spend a day at Lumpy. Do you have any suggestions for linking a few moderate climbs for a full day? I've got a few prospective like Pear Buttress to J-Crack. Or would you suggest simply spending a longer period of time on something like Turnkorner?

Just trying to get the best experience possible while I have a full day up there. Any and all suggestions appreciated!

Thanks!

-Greg

matt davies · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 25

Mainliner, Kor's Flake or anything on Sundance Buttress are longer, slightly more exposed lines with incredible position and views. For a one shot deal at Lumpy, go long. You don't want to trad crag with the Diamond at your back, in my opinion.

Bapgar 1 · · Out of the Loop · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 90

Or you could just head up and do something in the Park. It's pretty much just as far to Halletts as it is out to Sundance.

Guy H. · · Fort Collins CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 8,318

You could try a 5.10 Book trifecta for a good full day. Climb of the Ancient Mariner to Romulan Territory to something on the Right Book while finishing on Cheap Date. It will leave a smile on your face!

Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 888
Brent Apgar wrote:Or you could just head up and do something in the Park. It's pretty much just as far to Halletts as it is out to Sundance.
On that note what's another abbreviated approach in the park similar in length to Hallett Peak?
Julius Beres · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 364
Brent Apgar wrote:Or you could just head up and do something in the Park. It's pretty much just as far to Halletts as it is out to Sundance.
I would say Sundance has several routes nicer than Hallett...and it is less crowded! (as long as you don't jump on Kor's Flake on a Saturday or something)
Guy H. · · Fort Collins CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 8,318
Greg G wrote: On that note what's another abbreviated approach in the park similar in length to Hallett Peak?
Cathedral Wall has a bunch of adventurous 5.9's with a short approach. There are large runouts in the 5.6-5.7 range on every route, though. The wall faces SE, so you get good sun exposure.
Ian Stewart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 155
Julius Beres wrote: I would say Sundance has several routes nicer than Hallett...and it is less crowded! (as long as you don't jump on Kor's Flake on a Saturday or something)
I did Kor's last Saturday with absolutely perfect weather. We got on the wall at 8am and another party strolled in to do Mainliner at about 8:30. After that we didn't see another party the entire day. The only company we had were the few hummingbirds that would float around us as we sat on our belays with awesome views of Longs and the valley. The approach isn't the most fun (75 minutes with 1000ft of climbing over the last mile or so), but it's definitely worth it.
Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 888

Great suggestions everyone. I appreciate your input and opinions! Looking forward to the trip and experiencing the area as best I can.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

lumpy will probably be hotter than the hinges of hell this time of year. it is almost all south facing, and the slabby flared cracks + hot shoes are pretty brutal. the park is probably your best bet.

Ian Stewart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 155
slim wrote:lumpy will probably be hotter than the hinges of hell this time of year. it is almost all south facing, and the slabby flared cracks + hot shoes are pretty brutal. the park is probably your best bet.
Looking at the 10-day forecast for Estes, is seems that the daily highs are sitting right around 77 degrees. Once you're 1500ft higher at the base of Sundance you can expect that to be about 72, and less than 70 once you've reached the summit. Throw in some wind and it will feel cooler, and those highs don't even come until the early afternoon, right about when you'd be planning on finishing up in order to avoid the thunderstorms anyways.

Last weekend I climbed all of Kor's wearing a long-sleeve merino layer and a gore-tex shell on top of that. I put the jacket on when I was cold for the first belay, and then decided to just leave it on because it had a hood and I was too lazy to take it off and put on sunscreen.

Long story short: the weather is perfect up in Lumpy right now.
KevinCO · · Loveland, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 60

I was at Lumpy a couple of days ago and it wans't bad at all...I was surprised. However, some routes have an aspect that duplicates a reflector oven. Take 1-2 extra waters on the route and have an extra in your pack at the base.

Bapgar 1 · · Out of the Loop · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 90
slim wrote:lumpy will probably be hotter than the hinges of hell this time of year.
This was the main reason for my suggestion... though I'll admit that I prefer Lumpy when it's in the 60's for daytime highs. Plus the Park has such a short season it's nice to get up and enjoy it when it's good.

Another one to throw on the list would be the South Ridge(kind of choose your own adventure) of Notchtop. The approach may be further than Hallett but it's not too bad.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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