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Mt. Owen, Teton Range

Original Post
Nathaniel Holt · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 130

Does anybody have any beta on Mt. Owen in the Teton range? Conditions etc. Doing the east ridge route on Wednesday and was curious what type of gear is needed. Will ice axe, crampons, and standard rack do the job?

Daaave · · SLC, UT · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 0

I was up last weekend and didnt pass the rock band above the koven couloir. The chimney was a pretty decent flowing waterfall(just after 9 am) and we didn't have the gear to attempt the rock to the sides. The couloir itself is a mix of scrambling/hiking/snow. Def crampons and axe but not sure about the east ridge. for the descent down the koven it was easy scrambling, no raps required.

Nathaniel Holt · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 130

Thanks Dave. Was the snow in Koven pretty hard?

erik wellborn · · manitou springs · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 355

Did the east ridge last year. A single set of wires and cams up to 3" worked just fine. If you do the direct finish on the summit block instead of traverseing to the chimney, a couple of extra small wires might be useful.

Crampons and a iceaxe were mandatory, at least they were last year.

Sam Lightner, Jr. · · Lander, WY · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,732

And balls. The 5.6 slab up high is harder than 5.6 by a fair bit, and there is no gear for the hardest moves. You want sticky rubber for sure. The boys in 1938 were climbing hard!

You should have summer snow and you want crampons and a single axe. The runout for a slide on the snow includes a 800 foot drop onto the Teton Glacier.

Daaave · · SLC, UT · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 0

The koven snow was fine. Compact and gets good shade cover till later, the snow just above the koven, and i suspect the upper fields, softened up significantly by mid morning. Take care on one snow bridge half? way up the koven

Nathaniel Holt · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 130

Thanks all!

Sam, do you think approach shoes with 5.10 rubber will be fine or would you bring your trad shoes?

Dave, on the snow bridge is it necessary to rope up?

Cheerio

G Traub · · Tetonia, ID · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 5

Nate, how were the conditions up there. We are heading up the Koven this coming Saturday.

Nathaniel Holt · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 130

In my opinion they weren't the best conditions. I prefer going up a couloir over scrambling. The 1st 100 ft or so up the Koven is sort of hard snow then you have to scramble, then there is a touch more of softer snow like 20 ft, then what looks like what use to be a snow bridge, but now nothing but a slick rock with water running down it to 30 ft of snow until the top.

My partners opted to the left 4th class (maybe 5th in some spots) scrambling that is a little exposed and in mountaineering boot it sucks. I tried to stay to the snow as much as possible but obviously had to go left at some point.

The chimney before the upper snowfield sucks! There is no snow, just a waterfall and its cold! The earlier you get there the less it will be flowing. Soft mushy snow on the upper snowfield. The rest is rock that you will want sticky rubber for.

Could easily be done without crampons (even without an axe but id take one just in case). If I did it again id leave my mountaineering boots at home and just take approach shoes and my axe. A light rack.

Cheers mate

G Traub · · Tetonia, ID · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 5

Thanks for your report. Just planning on approach shoes and a set of nuts. Not looking forward to the waterfall.

Nathaniel Holt · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 130

Yup. I think nuts for the Koven route will work. But having a couple cams just in case isn't a bad idea imo. I didnt do the Koven so I dont know what the snow is like near the traverse or further. Id hate for an axe to be needed and you not have one. Just climb safe and have fun. Its beautiful up there!

G Traub · · Tetonia, ID · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 5

Thanks, we are also taking a few cams as well as an axe and my crampons for good measure. I have spent enough time in the Tetons to know better. By the way did you get to the top? Thanks again for the beta.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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