A buddy and me went to the Tree for a three day weekend of solid climbing. We started over in Indian Cove, climbed Moosedog. Then began driving around, it was freezing cold and windy, down jackets were a must as well as sunny climbs. We would drive until we saw something we liked then run over and climb it. Basically looking for vertical miles not really hunting out the 4 stars. 3 times we showed up at walls that were either too short or to boring looking to take gear out for, my first solos were on these cracks. At this point in my climbing career I had yet to lead anything and was climbing probably 5.8 solidly. Soloing a couple of 5.7 cracks really gets your head on when you have never been unprotected before. I blame my lazy partner for this situation.
We continued on our quest for the unknown by hiking out in Hidden canyon to Fisticuffs, we were bent on shamelessly TRing it but my buddy set up the TR over the wrong crack. While he set up a TR I sat huddled freezing to death, still in my down jacket. Finally he thought it best to lower me instead of rap down because of rope drag problems, so I lowered. Halfway dwon something up top shifted (I don't want to know what did) and I swung wildly into the wall next to me. Poof up goes a cloud of feathers as down jacket meets abrasive JTree granite. I get to the ground, take my jacket off and turn it inside out to try and retain as much poofiness as possible, and shove it in my pack. Now I look up at the crack. "Hmmm" I says to myself, "This is ugly". Ugly it was, I walk out around the corner and there is the beautiful Fisticuffs. I yell up that we are on the wrong climb, partner yells down "can you climb it?" I say sure why not and take off. It was ugly stemming on ball bearing rock, fists plus in the back. grunting and complaining and thinking of all the horrible things I was going to do to my partner when I got up tis thing. Got up it, tried to convince partner to climb it, he took one look at my scraped elbows and forearms and said he wanted nothing to do with it. He then being too tired and cold, decided that he was over it. So we hiked back out, on the way touching Thinwall (not really on the way). Went back and climbed Sticher Quits and Double Dip. Sticher Quits by buddy liked the runout so much that he skipped the anchors and kept going,this led to a fun bit of simul climbing up to the first bolt since no amount of shouting could slow him down.
Day Three we went after our trophy, Isles Corridor. More specifically Bird of Fire. We shamelessly TRed yet another classic, my buddy set up anchor and threw the rope off without a second thought. Then he had me rap down, about halfway the rope was jammed in Dolphin, no amount of pulling could get it out. So I worked my way over, jammed a knee in and proceeded to fight with the rop for a solid 10 minutes before it popped free. I then did a two hang summit of the Bird and my buddy followed with a perfect TR ascent. We were going to throw a rope off of Dolphin, despite my pleas to let me lead it, but then decided to climb all of the splitters in the Corridor. Looking back it is probably a good thing I did not lead it, I have limit off width skills, my main asset being fat legs that I can usually get jammed in. And we only had one #4 and one #3.
All in all I think we got around 20 routes in 3 days, 3-4 free solos, hiked all the way around Hidden Valley, ate two boxes of Oreos and survived. It was awesome.
Sorry slow day at work so I thought I would write up this trip. It was one of my most memorable despite the fact that we only ticked two classics and climbed a lot of bad routes. This is why I love JTree.
Jon