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Climbing @ Acadia and high tides.

JChepes · · West Ossipee, NH · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 7,390

Kevin I'll never go back to Acadia Heckler. Pretty harsh dude but everyone is entitled to their own opinion. This would be a prime example why New Englanders will never get along or agree with New Yorkers:>

Kevin Heckeler · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,616

I didn't say it was crap, I simply pointed out that the travel for most people to get there isn't worth it. People like me fly 3,000 miles to climb in Yosemite. THAT's an example of a true destination climbing area. Red Rocks, Red River, Eldo, Squamish... heck, even Rumney because of it's unique mostly sport climbing -- all of these are examples of destination climbing areas.

For a majority of climbers (look at a map, most humans on the planet live 3+ hours from Acadia) there's better or comparable climbing much closer to home, sans the ocean. So unless you're into seeing the ocean, just go elsewhere.

When I looked at my wallet and reflect on the vacation, in hindsight I choose to spend that money going elsewhere next time. No crime in that. And my posts are clarifications why (so if anyone's on the fence, maybe this will help them choose what I feel is the wiser path).

I also would not compare Acadia to the Gunks. Apples to Oranges. The Gunks are a HUGE climbing area with respect to number of climbs, multi-pitch routes, etc. I certainly wasn't comparing it to the Gunks. Actually, I've taken a few mini-vacations to the Gunks because it was cheaper than going elsewhere. The Gunks literally have ten times as many routes, and half of them are very high quality. That's a poor comparison for Acadia if that was the point.

My $0.02

Kevin Heckeler · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,616
Morgan Patterson wrote: Kevin - I can understand ur frustration if you just hit Otter Rocks on your trip to Acadia but I think you have dramatically underestimated what Acadia has to offer. Did you climb on the below cliff? What else in the NorthEast let alone the rest of the country is like this monster? It's the largest sea cliff on the east coast of the US and is nothing but burl and britches soiling scary monster swell. There is nothing tame, ordinary or home crag about it... There are caves that have massive roofs with 50 foot overhangs... There are amazing climbs all over acadia it just takes a bit of an adventurous spirit. And willingness to step off the beaten path of tourists.
Afraid this either missed our radar, or we weren't climbing hard enough to tackle those climbs. We have a couple dozen walls (not including the Gunks) within a 2 hour drive from us with similar features and height. We managed to do a few other things while in Acadia (the only few other things to do). It was a rehab trip for my recovering partner, so settling with just TR'ing was fine.

Repeating my point, remove the ocean and there's better/comparable climbing elsehwere in the Northeast. It's silly people are even arguing otherwise. Just an example of how blindly we get attached to a belief and/or place. As long as you're happy, cool. The more people who climb in Acadia means fewer people climbing where I am. :-D

That said, Acadia is the bomb!! ALL of you should go there for the rest of the summer!!!!
Eric Engberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 0

Nothing of interest at Acadia. Move along.

JChepes · · West Ossipee, NH · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 7,390

You can keep your Gunks and I will keep my Acadia! I've only been to NY once and that my friend was the last.

Travis Dustin · · Mexico Maine · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,665

For me Im going to Acadia for a family vacation not for a climbing trip. It just so happens my nephew is one of my climbing partners so we can get some climbs in while we are there. I wouldnt drive all that way just to strictly climb.

Chris D. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 0

Trip update!

So I thank everyone for their input, suggestions and thoughts.

We did not solely go for climbing but I'll give you my "report"

Acadia was much, more family oriented than I originally thought, which did not bother me in the slightest. We stayed at Blackwoods and the campsites were OK. Not the best, but somewhere around average I'd say, relatively close together but had very close access to the beaches and cliffs.

The climbing - First impressions were how crowded it was during the day. The crowds were predominantly made up by guides so it was a struggle to find an open spot, as soon as I found anything I jumped on it immediately, a 5.7 on wonderwall /Otter cliffs.

I only did this and the climb next to it so I can't really comment on too much but...it was great. Most people seem to be comparing it to the Gunks. And I'd say Acadia is visually more striking, having the waves rush behind you as you climb is great, and to stop mid climb and look back on the ocean is a treat. Personally, I'd put it this way, if you want a true climbing experience, Gunks for sure. If you want a pleasant and fun experience, Acadia definitely checks those boxes. Just make absolutely sure you know how to ascend, not that I needed to but I had all my extra slings ready. Also, pro tip, try not to throw your rope into the ocean.

I'm sorry to say I didn't get to try more, but from a Bostonian, the Gunks and Acadia are equidistant (5 hours) and I would go to either one again without much thought.

Rob Dillon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 760

Keep an eye on the tides. People have died.

David Stowe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 70

Acadia has so much more to offer than climbing. I climb when I am there but some of the other activities are great. The day hiking is hard to beat. The biking as also a ton of fun. The views from just about anywhere are striking. Explore the tidal pools at low tide, go sea kyacking, go whale watching, enjoy some seafood. Hard to no have a good time there. While I would never go there as a strict climbing destination the climbing is good, unique and very enjoyable. Living less than an hour from the gunks certainly spoils me to on demand work class climbing, but Acadia climbing certainly has its pluses.

Travis Dustin · · Mexico Maine · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,665

Chris - Did the crowds die down at all thruout the day or was it just busy all day long?

Marty Theriault · · Quebec, QC · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 310

If you haven't climbed at The Precipice, you haven't climbed in Acadia.... thats where most of the good stuff is!...my 2 cents....

Chris D. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 0

Dustin - The crowds we're pretty steady, though it's tough to say since it was the Friday of July 4th. My guess would be it has died down since then, just not while I was there.

The Precipice is closed for the meantime due to Falcon breeding, or "Falcon #$%*ing" as I prefer to call it. However the beehive is a hairy climb that is equally difficult/exhilarating as the precipice and that is open.

Kevin Flowers · · Granby, CT · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 0

Chris - Theriault is referring to the technical climbing on the south wall of The Precipice, not The Precipice Trail (i'm guessing this is what you thought he meant do to your comparison to the beehive trail). I'm curious though, do the closure extend to the south wall? I'm headed there in a couple weeks.

On a side note, last summer I dropped my camera in the scree field before the difficult part of the precipice trail and it bounced down into this sketchy cavern, never to be seen again. I spend hours looking for the damn thing, it makes me sick thinking of how many photos I lost.

wivanoff · · Northeast, USA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 674
KevinF wrote: I'm curious though, do the closure extend to the south wall? I'm headed there in a couple weeks.
Usually, the closed area is the "Central Slabs" (aka Precipice Right S. Wall). You'll have to check when you get there but I think Bartleby's to Wafer Step is usually closed until about August 15. Or it could be from Wafer Step further right - I don't remember.

I have never seen the Precipice left or center south walls closed.

If you go there, might I recommend climbing Old Town 5.7 or P1 of Gunklandia 5.7? Chains at the end of P1 on both. Finish on Birch Aid 5.9 to gear anchors at the top. Bolt anchors for rappelling to the left of the Birch Aid finish (easy scramble). Two of the best crack climbs on the island, imo.

nps.gov/acad/index.htm
nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/…
nps.gov/acad/parknews/some-…

BTW, PM me if you want some suggestions of places to eat. There's some great restaurants there.
Derek Doucet · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 66

The closures generally begin just right of Wafer Step, and this year is no exception. In practice, this means the entire Precipice/Southwall as listed in the Butterfield guide is open. This is firsthand information, as I was just there a week or two ago.

Travis Dustin · · Mexico Maine · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,665

UPDATE: Otter cliffs was awesome! We got there early(6:00am) and were the first ones there on a saturday.While the climbs werent super tall I found them them to be fun and enough of them to keep us busy until the sun was cooking us. Being right on the ocean was incredible. We got there just before high tide and was able to both rap down and have plenty of room at the bottom of the cliffs to belay without being in the water. With that said i would 100% go back to climb, but i would go to the precipice as well to see what thats all about.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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