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Routes in 2. Duet Area etc
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Add Libs T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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All Day Sucker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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British Were Coming, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Condemned Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Continuation of Rock Candy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b C0 PG13 |
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Duet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Duet Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fall from Grace T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Jawbreaker (not completely done) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3- |
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Light Brigade, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Lightning Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pops-Sick-Hill T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R |
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Raven Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rock Candy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Rodan T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sam's Ghost T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Sam's Swan Song T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Sayonara T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Sextet T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0 |
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Sinister Satisfaction T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Slow and Easy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sticky Fingers T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 260 ft (79 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 6,641 total · 39/month |
| Shared By: | redpoint robby on May 16, 2010 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Details
Description
Pitch 1: Start at the base of the left facing crack system on the left side of the Duet Buttress. Climb moderate handcracks until the wall steepens then smear and layback up the blocky crack system (crux). Belay at the base of the enormous left facing corner of Duet Direct on fixed nuts/hexes. 100 feet 5.7
NOTE COMMENTs from two recent climbers who report:" P2 has a lot of loose rock, some of which is in the crack and hard to avoid. Rockfall from p2 would land fairly near the base of Slow and Easy. " RHall NH Admin.
Pitch 2: Begin as for Duet Direct but bail out around the corner to the right before the crack steepens. Protect the move (crux) in a horizontal and move right into a huge right leaning crack. Traverse up and right with awkward technique and plenty of hidden holds in the crack. Enjoy the exposure and belay at a pin on an obvious ledge with small gear. Watch for loose rocks and be careful to protect your second in the last 30 feet; a fall would put them a ways down on the blank face below. 130 feet 5.6
Pitch 3: Depart the ledge up the obvious ramp to the left. Continue up easy ground for about 30 feet. Place a #3 cam about 12 feet above a ledge and downclimb to the anchor for Duet Direct. 45 feet 5.2
This climb can reach the top of the cliff but I have not completed it as the upper pitches are "loose and unmemorable." This is a great way to set up a toprope on Duet Direct. 2 60 meter ropes are needed to barely reach the ground from the anchor.
NOTE COMMENTs from two recent climbers who report:" P2 has a lot of loose rock, some of which is in the crack and hard to avoid. Rockfall from p2 would land fairly near the base of Slow and Easy. " RHall NH Admin.
Pitch 2: Begin as for Duet Direct but bail out around the corner to the right before the crack steepens. Protect the move (crux) in a horizontal and move right into a huge right leaning crack. Traverse up and right with awkward technique and plenty of hidden holds in the crack. Enjoy the exposure and belay at a pin on an obvious ledge with small gear. Watch for loose rocks and be careful to protect your second in the last 30 feet; a fall would put them a ways down on the blank face below. 130 feet 5.6
Pitch 3: Depart the ledge up the obvious ramp to the left. Continue up easy ground for about 30 feet. Place a #3 cam about 12 feet above a ledge and downclimb to the anchor for Duet Direct. 45 feet 5.2
This climb can reach the top of the cliff but I have not completed it as the upper pitches are "loose and unmemorable." This is a great way to set up a toprope on Duet Direct. 2 60 meter ropes are needed to barely reach the ground from the anchor.
10 Comments