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squamish multipitch classics

Original Post
Spencer Weiler · · Grand Junction · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 2,668

spending a week in squamish in august. other than the grand wall, what are some 4-8 pitch 5.9-5.12 multipitch ultraclassics I need to do while I'm there? If its a 5.12 preferably only one pitch in that grade as I can't climb 4 .12 pitches in a row.

Zac Barr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2002 · Points: 10

Freeway!

Guy H. · · Fort Collins CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 8,318

Grand Wall
Freeway
Alaska Highway

Dominic Albanese · · Baltimore, MD · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 475

Not perhaps as hard as you might like, but I enjoyed these.

Rock On (10a 6 pitches) to Squamish Buttress (10c). Squamish buttress has one good pitch the rest is just ok.

Ultimate Everything (5.9) is a great moderate way to go bottom to top.

Angels Crest (10.c 14 pitches) feels pretty alpine but was my favorite climb of the trip.

Sunblessed is a great rest day 3 pitch 10 ish route way up on the backside of the Chief. Dont skip the last pitch flare!

Enjoy!

randy88fj62 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 291

Calculus Crack 5.9

Bapgar 1 · · Out of the Loop · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 90

The Snake on the Apron is a 5 pitch 9 that I thought was super fun. Snake

David.Jones · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2009 · Points: 10

Two newer possibilities:

Milk Road on Chief 9p 10d A0

Right Wing on Slhanay (Squaw) 6p 10c

Topos, etc here:

jeremyfrimer.com/Climbing_R…

Eric Fjellanger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2008 · Points: 870

I very, very highly recommend both Borderline and Blazing Saddles.

Supposedly there is a way to link Borderline into Angel's Crest (via dirty ledges?), which you could then link into High Plains Drifter, which would be a helluva day.

If you're really game for 5.12, Daily Planet looks sweet.

Eric Fjellanger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2008 · Points: 870
randy88fj62 wrote:Calculus Crack 5.9
5.8, please. Fight grade inflation!
Jason Price · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 0

Angels Crest is really cool! It starts with a tree climb! You can end it with High Plains Drifter which is spectacular; solid 5.11 but only 2 pitches.

sibylle Hechtel · · Silverthorne, CO · Joined Aug 2005 · Points: 4,525

Millenium Falcon (5.11)! I've also climbed Squamish Buttress, Angels' Crest, Europa, Sunblessed, Calculus Crack, and for long, multipitch routes, Millenium Falcon was my favorite.
Sunblessed has a terrific crack pitch, but has only three pitches.

Hans Bauck · · Squamish, BC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 2,099

The new guidebook has a Top 100 list, and this is a good place to start. Some of the routes mentioned above are great choices, while others .... not so much.

Consider the following:

Centrefold
Angel's Crest
Grub Street Complex
Great Game
Cruel Shoes
Milk Road
Right Wing
Grand Wall
Freeway

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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