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Eiger biners

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

I had 3 orange annodized biners back in 80's but they weren't Eiger. Think it was SMC.

NYClimber · · New York · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 85
Woodchuck ATC wrote:I had 3 orange annodized biners back in 80's but they weren't Eiger. Think it was SMC.
Yeah - I have 2 orange SMC's already that someone on here sent me....
David Flora · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 5

I have a cupla eiger 'biners, didn't think anybody would ever want to collect em so I heated them up and bent them into pretzls. still use eiger hexes on my aid rack

NYClimber · · New York · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 85
David Flora wrote:I have a cupla eiger 'biners, didn't think anybody would ever want to collect em so I heated them up and bent them into pretzls. still use eiger hexes on my aid rack
Not nice!!!!! LOL!
NYClimber · · New York · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 85

PS Still seeking more collectable EIGER 'biners.

Contact me on what you have - quantity, condition and asking price, etc.

I am especially seeking to find any anodized ones if available as well.

NYClimber · · New York · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 85

Still seeking Eiger carabiners from anyone that has any in good to VGC.

E-mail me what you have, pics, and asking price(s).

Thanks,

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

Curious to just an interest or is there a project/reason behind the search for Eiger biners? I've got old Royal Robbins biners too, and Liberty, SMC, REI, many old steel ovals from eons ago.

NYClimber · · New York · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 85

Good question!

It started out having a fascination for the Eiger itself as a teenager.
The Eiger 'biners just became a extension of the lore of the Eiger itself sort-of.

Now it has became more of a fascination with older 'biner manufactures before bent gates and wire gates became the norm, and 'D' shaped 'biners, etc.

Particularly of interest has been the Eigers, SMC's, etc.

I have never seen a Royal Robbins nor Liberty 'biner myself actually! I didn't even know RR had a 'biner out! I have heard of Liberty but never have seen one.

I have mostly been interested in 'biners from the 60's and 70's era.

: )

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

Here's the two I have. The red one says EIGER USA. The silver one may or may not be an Eiger. It is stamped GENDARME, but in comparison to the red one, the pins are better finished and look to be stainless steel. More significantly, it is very slightly different in shape: not a purely symmetrical oval, but very slightly "modified D" shape, reminiscent of early the Salewa/Chouinard biners. Also, no knurling on the gate.



NYClimber · · New York · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 85

Wow - talk about some serious history here in manufacturing in the good ole USA back then! Kinda sad that manufacturing has all but faded away to nothing here in the USA these days!

PS Thanks everyone for sharing their pics and info. I appreciate it. I didn't even know that Eiger had also made Hexes as well back them! Damn! Would def love a few of those old Hex's for my 'collection' as well. Especially the unwired ones! I think tho I'd be tempted to put them on my rack and use them tho - would def make some 'history' using them and for sure an interesting conversational piece as well!

How did they rate in Kg strength versus today's Black Diamond Hexes I wonder?

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

Troll and Eiger hexes were, as I recall, very thick and heavy devices. Waaay thicker than even the first generation of hexcentrics. No fun hauling them around. I might have one somewhere in my old gear collection too. Will find it and do a pic if possible.

Randall Chapman · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 1,582

Coolest thread I've read in a long time, thanks guys.

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

Here's what I dug up from the old rack hanging in the barn. First pic is a gathering of carabiners. Left column: a Clog D, stamped Climb High on the other side as they were selling them here in States. Next below is the ultimate 'biner of the late 70's, the Bonaiti 'ultralight' D biner. I must have had 50 or more of these back then. they were pretty light for the day. Next is a Bonaiti oval, and last is a rare hollow Chouinard 'featherlight' carabiner. They had a tendency to crack open, split and break in half. Weight only 40 grams, also an early 80's invention.

Second column: An Eiger oval, next a similar SMC oval, then a Liberty slight D' shaped biner, and finally a Salewa R.Robbins oval. Note the bump at the gate for easy location of gate on an oval,,,think it was the first carabiner to have that for location.

Next pic is a Troll product I think, some off shaped titon thing, then a slider chock, manufacturer I don't know as it said 'patent pending' with some numbers only on it. Finally a nice silver #7 Forrest Titon.

Last pic is a Chouinard drilled hexcentric, supposed to lighten up the chock before they got a thinner aluminum to use for best and current shapes. An SMC 'taperloc', just imagine these 2 chocks being crushed in shape when holding a big fall. Last is a heavy thick Troll hex, with an 11mm. rope as the sling.
More old stuff, like RURPs and crackN'ups also in my old gear collection.





Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

Woodchuck, thanks for the biner info. Your Liberty is exactly like my "Gendarme" branded one. So it's not an Eiger, as I suspected.

Speaking of Eiger hexes, here's the only one I have, a #2. It's 1.25" long x 0.5" across its symmetrical hex profile. Note the large holes. This is apparently a non-OEM cable on it, which would explain the clunky swage and Tygon tubing (not heat shrink) on it.

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

Yes, I do have some of those old Eiger wires too, just forgot to grab them off the same rack in storage. Same size too I believe. SMC also had similar solid wired hex nuts too.

NYClimber · · New York · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 85

Wow guys! Thanks for the pics and the history lesson! COOL STUFF!

I never know Chouinard ever MADE a hollow carabiner nor there was a Robbins carabiner either!

WOW! Hollow! Now that's a wild idea!

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

Different size/shapes of the'D', and adjustments to the oval seemed to keep the 80's busy with redesigns. Chouinard ovals were the standard, then those smaller Bonaiti 'D shaped lightweight biners came out, and often under 3 bucks per, made for a nice way to load up your trad rack cheap. Don't think doglegs came along until,,,90's?,, and then wire gates and the itty bitty sized Neutrinos and similar of the last 10 years. Always something new to get you to buy more gear. My toprope setup bundle of slings still use the collection of ovals I have.

NYClimber · · New York · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 85

Yeah it seems the trend is marketing these days and every couple of months someone comes out with the latest and greatest new carabiner - smaller, lighter, etc - and now the wire gate is the rage of course.

Sure - shaving weight off a rack is always a nice thing - but still - the classic oval 'biner can't be beat - IMHO. Sure - there ARE stronger shapes and such now - but - I've never heard of an oval 'biner failing yet...not saying they haven't - but I never heard of it happening - and if it did - it sure wasn't due to the shape of the 'biner vs. being defective or damaged.

Ed Wright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2006 · Points: 285

For an interesting story about a wire-gate 'biner see my August 1, 2011 blog posting.

here

NYClimber · · New York · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 85
Ed Wright wrote:For an interesting story about a wire-gate 'biner see my August 1, 2011 blog posting. here
OK thanks.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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