All Locations > Alaska > Interior Alaska… > Denali NP > Little Switzerland > Middle Troll

South Face

Name: South Face
Rating: 3.4

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British Mod. Snow

Routes in Middle Troll

L › R R › L A › Z

	Chaos T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Mod. Snow
	Pollard-Rich Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Mod. Snow

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Type:	Trad, Snow, Alpine, 1300 ft (394 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
FA:	Reese Martin, John Rich, Pete Pollard
Page Views:	8,697 total · 48/month
Shared By:	cerickson on Jul 28, 2009
Admins:	L. Von Dommelheimer Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park! Details

Description

Follow blocky terrain (trending right) with short steep sections aiming for the obvious crack just below/left of the summit. Route finding is a challenge lower, but it all leads to a super splitter, perfect-width hand crack. A couple of short cruxy sections lead to ledges below the summit. Rap anchors are set for double lines and are easy to locate.

Location

Travel moderate snow slopes (caution: bergschrund!) and get on the rock as low as you can. Ditch your skis/snowshoes, switch to rock shoes and go! Unless there are unseasonably high snow conditions you can leave the boots behind and travel only with rock shoes once you've left the snow.