Mountain Project Logo

Monkey Face route with no aid climbing

Original Post
Burk Wayne · · Charleston, WV · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 5

I am looking to climb Monkey Face sometime this summer. I would like to stick to the 5.8 West side route, but is it possible to climb it without aid climbing? Also, is there a place where this route is detailed better than it is on MP (i.e. with pictures). Thanks!

Conor Byrne · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 34

the easiest free route up monkey face is Monkey Space 5.11b. the route starts at Bohn Street and can be accessed from either the southeast side (standard start to pioneer route) or from the west face variation 5.8

Peter Rakowitz · · Portland, OR · Joined May 2010 · Points: 440

The Smith Rock guide book is a good place to start. If you don't have one most Multnomah County LIbraries do.

rock-fencer · · Columbia, SC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 265

i believe that the A0 bolt ladder has gone free at 5.13 no easy free climbing way up. Just bring a set of speed aiders and you'll be fine.

Leeroy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 0

If you can't handle the bolt ladder getting into the mouth then you probably should find something in the Dihedrals to climb and stay off the Monkey. Probably want to avoid the entire west side.

Or maybe learn how to stand up in a sling.

As far as details about the Monkey...have you tried Google? You'll be amazed at what you'll find with a little searching.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
Post a Reply to "Monkey Face route with no aid climbing"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.