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Routes in The Crag Ranch
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Back at the Ranch S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Back Steps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Butterfly Effect T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Candy Ass 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Consolation Prize S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cow Bell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crag Rancher S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cross Cove Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Devil's Reality T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dusty Trail S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fenceline S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Field of Opportunity S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Granite Rodeo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Greenhorn S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Grub Crack, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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High Plains Poser S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Holey Mittens T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Life On The Ranch S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Meanwhile S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Moon Boots and Mittens T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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North 40 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Plain High Poser S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Property Boundary S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Quickdraw Rustler S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sheep Buggerer, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Shoo Fly S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Snare Drum T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Throwin' the Shit Fit S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | Tod Anderson, Rich Magill, James Donnell, Christine Damiano, Mark Felty |
| Page Views: | 3,317 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Tod Anderson on Jul 27, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Raptor Closures
Details
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
Description
This route is located at the edge of the west and south faces of The Crag Ranch where the south face reaches its lowest point. This route is LONG so TIE A KNOT IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE BEFORE YOU START. It is possible to do the whole thing in one continuous pitch from the ground, but you'll need a bucketload of draws. The part up to the first set of anchors, call it the first pitch if you like, is ten bolts and about 5.11c following granite tufas and laybacks. The next section is the business, trending right along a crystal band via underclings to a big reach & highstep (5.12c, about 12 more draws). After that spot the route stays on the front of the buttress avoiding the crack for more 5.12 face climbing on crimps, flakes and scoops, not as hard as below but still pumpy. There is a second station here, but you can't get all the way back to the ground with a 60m cord (a 70m will probably reach). It would be easy to lower from the second station to the first then pull the rope for the final lower with a 60m cord. The final bit goes up right through a roof, much easier, to the final anchor. It is also possible to traverse into the upper 2/3 of this route from the sunny ledge at the base of Granite Rodeo and Crag Rancher and you can lower from the top and reach the ledge with a 60m cord. This route has good stone, varied climbing, and lots of it, not exactly a two bolt wonder. Have fun!
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