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Classic New England lines

Original Post
Nick K · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 30

After living out west for a while, I'm headed back to New England. I have lots of free time this summer before I head to grad school in the fall and I want to climb as many classic trad lines as possible. I need suggestions.

I'm looking to start with 5.8s (which I expect to have no problems climbing) and work my way up from there. I figure I'll probably find my ceiling for flashing stuff in the 5.10 range, so if you suggest something in that range, I'd prefer it to have good pro. Multi-pitch is preferable, and if it's within 2-3 hours of southern ME (right over the river from from Portsmouth, NH), even better, but by no means is that a requirement.

I want to get a really good feel for climbing in the area, then find my limits, then break them. I'm also looking for partners for these shenanigans, see this thread

I'm expecting that a lot of this will revolve around the North Conway area, but I'd like to branch out and do some exploring as well.

M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090

Have you checked out Jerry Handrens brand new North Conway guidebook yet? northconwayrockclimbs.com/ With it and the stuff here you should find lots to get you psyched. I'd really recommend picking the book up if you are going to be in the area for a while. In the last few years I have been mostly focused on slightly back country new routing at basically a couple crags, so I will leave it to others to recommend routes. You have a huge amount of stuff available within 3 hrs drive time.

Brian · · North Kingstown, RI · Joined Sep 2001 · Points: 804

Okay here are a few classics.

Cannon Cliff -- Moby Grape 5.8
Cannon Cliff -- Vertigo 5.9
Cathedral Cliff -- Recompense 5.9
Cathedral Cliff -- Book of Solemity 5.10
Whitehorse Cliff -- Hotter than Hell 5.9 to Inferno 5.8

Jonathan S · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 2,113

Here's my hot list -

Maine -
Acadia - Morning Glory
Acadia - Green Mountain Breakdown
Acadia - A Dare by the Sea
Clifton - Witch Wonder
Clifton - Son of a Birch
Katahdin - Armadillo
Camden - Charlotte's Crack

NH -
Cannon - Whitney Gilman
Cannon - Moby Grape
Cathedral - They Died Laughing
Cathedral - Toe Crack to Standard Route to Pine Tree Eliminate
Cathedral - Funhouse
Whitehorse - Sea of Holes
Whitehorse - Wave Length
Whitehorse - Reign of Fire
Pawtuckaway - Open Book
Pawtuckaway - The Roof
Pawtuckaway - Chamonix
Pawtuckaway - The horn

VT -
Bolton - Harvest Moon

Nick K · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 30

Damn, I love the internet. Good info all around and I've gotten a bunch of responses to my partner thread too.

Sprague, I'm planning to pick up that book for sure, I have the Falcon New England guide from the last time I lived in the area, but since those are only good for overviews, what are some other good area guides? I've got Boston Rocks and the old Pawtuckaway bouldering guide too.

Simon Thompson · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 890

We have some good stuff in NY. Gamesmanship(5.8+ 600'), Fastest Gun(5.10a 500'), The Diagonal(5.8 850'), Free Ride(5.11a, 735'), Hard Times(5.9+ 380'), and A Touch of Class(5.9+ 400') are just some of the climbs that come to mind. Most of the big stuff in NY is on Poke-O Moonshine, Wallface, and Moss Cliff, though some long(ish) multi-pitch gems can be found elsewhere in NY too.

Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,945
M Sprague wrote:Have you checked out Jerry Handrens brand new North Conway guidebook yet? northconwayrockclimbs.com/ With it and the stuff here you should find lots to get you psyched. I'd really recommend picking the book up if you are going to be in the area for a while. In the last few years I have been mostly focused on slightly back country new routing at basically a couple crags, so I will leave it to others to recommend routes. You have a huge amount of stuff available within 3 hrs drive time.
Cool to see the Laughing Lion in there... did they include any of the bouldering or just roped climbs?
Nick K · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 30
Simon Thompson wrote:We have some good stuff in NY. Gamesmanship(5.8+ 600'), Fastest Gun(5.10a 500'), The Diagonal(5.8 850'), Free Ride(5.11a, 735'), Hard Times(5.9+ 380'), and A Touch of Class(5.9+ 400') are just some of the climbs that come to mind. Most of the big stuff in NY is on Poke-O Moonshine, Wallface, and Moss Cliff, though some long(ish) multi-pitch gems can be found elsewhere in NY too.
I'm really excited to check out the Daks, but I figured I'd start with things closer to home for the summer. The Daks seem like a good place to go in the fall, that sound about right?
john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

The fall is always best. Right now things are BUGGY.
Tons of stuff;

Oscar
Owl's
All the stuff across from Cannon

etc, etc...

Andrew Mertens · · Fort Collins · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 136

To mix up the climbing areas, here are some suggestions of greatroutes at more obscure locations than North Conway:

Pinnacle Arete on Mt. Washington, with variations from 5.5 to 5.7 to 5.8 to 5.9+. ~800ft

The Great Dihedral on Mt. Wheeler, Vt.- 5.10c 400ft

There are a lot of awesome 1-3 pitch 5.9's at the Precipice at Acadia (Green Mountain Breakdown, Sea Gypsy, Chicken by the Sea, Recollections of Pacifica, and Return to Forever), and its a wonderful place to be in the summer. (Hot, but so is everywhere else.)

Seventh Seal to Loose Lips (10a, 2 pitches, 250 ft.) on Whitehorse is my favorite 5.10 in the area, and is well protected and reasonably graded.

Vertigo (5.9, 3-4 pitches, 400 ft.) on Cannon is the best 5.9 in NH.
Diedre on Cathedral (mostly 5.8-5.9 with a 5.10b boulder problem, 4 pitches, 350 ft.) is very good.

Nick K · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 30

I like the Mt. Washington suggestion, what about lines on Katahdin? MP seems to have a dearth of information, and mentions the only guide being a log at the ranger station, is that true? I'd really like to climb Katahdin, but it'd be nice to have a little info on what I'm getting myself into there before I leave the house.

I've already got a trip planned to Acadia in August (yes, we've already reserved our campsites) with some friends of mine, I'm really excited about hitting up the Precipice.

Somewhat related to this, has anyone been up to Newfoundland for the walls up there? Seems like there's a lot of potential up that way and the photos that have been published various places from Honnold and co's trip up there look absolutely beautiful. I've searched around the web a bit, ran across the eastern Canada climbing website, but no one seems to have much info published on the web. Seems like it would be pretty awesome to have walls that big (sort of) close to the east coast.

Brian, I'll be in touch when I know exactly what my plans are around that time. If you don't hear from me and are still looking for a partner, don't hesitate to PM.

S. Neoh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 35

While at Precipice, check out Chitlin Corner (P1 & P2), Gunklandia, Return To Forever, and Old Towne. There will be a line for one or more of these climbs so be ready to be flexible.

I have hiked Katahdin several times but never did any of the technical climbs there. The hike (and there are quite a few trails to choose from and experience) is pretty good, with quite a bit above tree line. Don't miss doing the knife edge. It is NOT scary unless there is a strong cross wind.

Nick K · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 30
S. Neoh wrote:While at Precipice, check out Chitlin Corner (P1 & P2), Gunklandia, Return To Forever, and Old Towne. There will be a line for one or more of these climbs so be ready to be flexible. I have hiked Katahdin several times but never did any of the technical climbs there. The hike (and there are quite a few trails to choose from and experience) is pretty good, with quite a bit above tree line. Don't miss doing the knife edge. It is NOT scary unless there is a strong cross wind.
This may be somewhat small minded of me, but while I'd like to check out the knife edge, I really hate hiking for it's own sake. If there's a technical line that tops out somewhere near the knife edge that would be sweet.

I will gladly carry a pack for miles and miles over any terrain if there's a climb at the end, but hiking for hiking's sake is about as unpleasant an activity as I can imagine.
bparry · · Branford · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 30

Off topic from the OP, but in line with recent posts - fun "hikes:"

mountainproject.com/v/hende…
There is also a long 5.4 next to Central Gulley

Not sandbagging anyone, despite the YDS rating, these are really nice hikes.

Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,945
Nick K wrote: I will gladly carry a pack for miles and miles over any terrain if there's a climb at the end, but hiking for hiking's sake is about as unpleasant an activity as I can imagine.
Hahahaha - Awesome comment.
Nathan Stokes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 440
Nick K wrote: I will gladly carry a pack for miles and miles over any terrain if there's a climb at the end, but hiking for hiking's sake is about as unpleasant an activity as I can imagine.
You're in luck in the Adirondacks, there is a 5.7 Wissner route at the top of Noonmark (~3.2 miles, 1700 ft of gain to get to the base).
Nick K · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 30

Sounds like a good time! How long is the route?

Ethan Lennox · · South Lake Tahoe, CA · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 65

If you head to the Dacks make sure you do Pete's Farewell, and Quadrophenia. Both are classic 5.7/.8 routes. If you get up to Acadia, a dare by the sea is a great route. I know you're looking for classic trad lines, but don't over look the great sport lines of Rumney, and the Shag Crag in Maine.

Nick K · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 30
Ethan L wrote:If you head to the Dacks make sure you do Pete's Farewell, and Quadrophenia. Both are classic 5.7/.8 routes. If you get up to Acadia, a dare by the sea is a great route. I know you're looking for classic trad lines, but don't over look the great sport lines of Rumney, and the Shag Crag in Maine.
I won't, but sport lines seem to be way easier to find info on. I also mostly see sport climbing as a useful way to build a lot of strength and power for use on longer climbs elsewhere, it's not really an end of itself. So while I'll spend a fair amount of time doing it, I'm not that likely to end up lusting after a sport climb the way I do long, hard, committing climbs on really aesthetic pieces of rock (not to say I've done much of those, but all the dream routes I'd like to do some day fit that description).
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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