Classic New England lines
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After living out west for a while, I'm headed back to New England. I have lots of free time this summer before I head to grad school in the fall and I want to climb as many classic trad lines as possible. I need suggestions. |
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Have you checked out Jerry Handrens brand new North Conway guidebook yet? northconwayrockclimbs.com/ With it and the stuff here you should find lots to get you psyched. I'd really recommend picking the book up if you are going to be in the area for a while. In the last few years I have been mostly focused on slightly back country new routing at basically a couple crags, so I will leave it to others to recommend routes. You have a huge amount of stuff available within 3 hrs drive time. |
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Okay here are a few classics. |
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Here's my hot list - |
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Damn, I love the internet. Good info all around and I've gotten a bunch of responses to my partner thread too. |
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We have some good stuff in NY. Gamesmanship(5.8+ 600'), Fastest Gun(5.10a 500'), The Diagonal(5.8 850'), Free Ride(5.11a, 735'), Hard Times(5.9+ 380'), and A Touch of Class(5.9+ 400') are just some of the climbs that come to mind. Most of the big stuff in NY is on Poke-O Moonshine, Wallface, and Moss Cliff, though some long(ish) multi-pitch gems can be found elsewhere in NY too. |
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M Sprague wrote:Have you checked out Jerry Handrens brand new North Conway guidebook yet? northconwayrockclimbs.com/ With it and the stuff here you should find lots to get you psyched. I'd really recommend picking the book up if you are going to be in the area for a while. In the last few years I have been mostly focused on slightly back country new routing at basically a couple crags, so I will leave it to others to recommend routes. You have a huge amount of stuff available within 3 hrs drive time.Cool to see the Laughing Lion in there... did they include any of the bouldering or just roped climbs? |
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Simon Thompson wrote:We have some good stuff in NY. Gamesmanship(5.8+ 600'), Fastest Gun(5.10a 500'), The Diagonal(5.8 850'), Free Ride(5.11a, 735'), Hard Times(5.9+ 380'), and A Touch of Class(5.9+ 400') are just some of the climbs that come to mind. Most of the big stuff in NY is on Poke-O Moonshine, Wallface, and Moss Cliff, though some long(ish) multi-pitch gems can be found elsewhere in NY too.I'm really excited to check out the Daks, but I figured I'd start with things closer to home for the summer. The Daks seem like a good place to go in the fall, that sound about right? |
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The fall is always best. Right now things are BUGGY. |
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To mix up the climbing areas, here are some suggestions of greatroutes at more obscure locations than North Conway: |
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I like the Mt. Washington suggestion, what about lines on Katahdin? MP seems to have a dearth of information, and mentions the only guide being a log at the ranger station, is that true? I'd really like to climb Katahdin, but it'd be nice to have a little info on what I'm getting myself into there before I leave the house. |
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While at Precipice, check out Chitlin Corner (P1 & P2), Gunklandia, Return To Forever, and Old Towne. There will be a line for one or more of these climbs so be ready to be flexible. |
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S. Neoh wrote:While at Precipice, check out Chitlin Corner (P1 & P2), Gunklandia, Return To Forever, and Old Towne. There will be a line for one or more of these climbs so be ready to be flexible. I have hiked Katahdin several times but never did any of the technical climbs there. The hike (and there are quite a few trails to choose from and experience) is pretty good, with quite a bit above tree line. Don't miss doing the knife edge. It is NOT scary unless there is a strong cross wind.This may be somewhat small minded of me, but while I'd like to check out the knife edge, I really hate hiking for it's own sake. If there's a technical line that tops out somewhere near the knife edge that would be sweet. I will gladly carry a pack for miles and miles over any terrain if there's a climb at the end, but hiking for hiking's sake is about as unpleasant an activity as I can imagine. |
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Off topic from the OP, but in line with recent posts - fun "hikes:" |
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Nick K wrote: I will gladly carry a pack for miles and miles over any terrain if there's a climb at the end, but hiking for hiking's sake is about as unpleasant an activity as I can imagine.Hahahaha - Awesome comment. |
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Nick K wrote: I will gladly carry a pack for miles and miles over any terrain if there's a climb at the end, but hiking for hiking's sake is about as unpleasant an activity as I can imagine.You're in luck in the Adirondacks, there is a 5.7 Wissner route at the top of Noonmark (~3.2 miles, 1700 ft of gain to get to the base). |
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Sounds like a good time! How long is the route? |
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If you head to the Dacks make sure you do Pete's Farewell, and Quadrophenia. Both are classic 5.7/.8 routes. If you get up to Acadia, a dare by the sea is a great route. I know you're looking for classic trad lines, but don't over look the great sport lines of Rumney, and the Shag Crag in Maine. |
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Ethan L wrote:If you head to the Dacks make sure you do Pete's Farewell, and Quadrophenia. Both are classic 5.7/.8 routes. If you get up to Acadia, a dare by the sea is a great route. I know you're looking for classic trad lines, but don't over look the great sport lines of Rumney, and the Shag Crag in Maine.I won't, but sport lines seem to be way easier to find info on. I also mostly see sport climbing as a useful way to build a lot of strength and power for use on longer climbs elsewhere, it's not really an end of itself. So while I'll spend a fair amount of time doing it, I'm not that likely to end up lusting after a sport climb the way I do long, hard, committing climbs on really aesthetic pieces of rock (not to say I've done much of those, but all the dream routes I'd like to do some day fit that description). |