Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Skyler Penrod, Paul Bucher
Page Views: 2,117 total · 15/month
Shared By: Goodman Sachs on May 21, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Follow obvious splitter up the river facing side of the fallen block that Tjurunga climbs. Starts offwidth and slowly works its way to less than tips. There are many face holds that make this crack much easier than if you were to only climb the crack system itself.

Start in the offwidth with a flake and work your way up solid jams and brittle feet until you get into great fist jams that slowly work into hands. When the crack tightens down to tight hands you have to a short well protected traverse with okay holds and no feet. Look for the hidden holds in the pod and pull up to the finger crack. climb balancy moves until you get to the less than tips crack and can grab the arete on the left. There are several options at this point as to what way to go. Several more moves gains the anchor. If you want there is a hidden bolt on the back side of the capstone above the anchor that gains access to the summit cap.

Location Suggest change

Follow the slowly establishing trail up the talus and climb the obvious splitter on the fallen block that is just right of where the trail lets out. This route shares the same anchors as Tjurunga. If you look to your left you should see the Spear of Destiny.

Protection Suggest change

I would recommend bringing (in tcu's): 1 purple, 1 blue, 3 yellow, 3 orange (.5 Camalot might be better). The rest of the rack would be at least 1 .75 BD, 2 #1BD, 2 or 3 #2BD, 2 #3BD (I would trade one for a #4 friend), 2 #4BD and 1 #5BD. The rack goes almost in order from big to small.

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