Rappelling in Devil's Lake

Hello,
I'm looking for good rappelling spots in Devil's Lake. The park website offers no guidance on good spots. I was hoping to head up there this weekend. I know there area some really great spots there, as I've been hiking there plenty of times before, but I've never been rappelling there. Something in the 50'-75' range would be ideal, 100' max (I only have 150' rope). Any suggestions are welcome!
Regards

Jeremey, please avoid popular climbs such as Boy Scout, Orgasm...pretty much the whole East Bluff. People like to set up raps there and hog them all day. If it's just you are a few people rapping that's ok but please dont rap with groups on East Bluff.

You will prorably need a climbing guide book to find what spots I or anyone else who posts, do you have one?

A good rap might be down the route "Ghost of Psamead Head" at Prospect Point, it's a pretty hard route that rarely gets climbed, a cool view and decends a sheer face.

I'm assuming you know how to set a proper cord or webbing anchor and have some gear to do so?

Hi ClimbingF,
Thanks for the quick response! The group will be me and one other person. I do know how to setup a proper anchor/webbing and have gear (for rappelling, not climbing). I'll need to be in a place where I can hike back up to my anchor to retrieve it, although I'd like to practice rapping off a clove hitch and pulling the rope down.

What I don't have is the guide book for finding spots. Any suggestions?

This is the latest revision of the standard guidebook for DL.

Thanks, Carl. I'll likely pick it up this weekend. I'm hoping they have one at REI or the the visitors center.

This post violated Rule #1. It has been removed by Mountain Project.

Yer gonna die...

Since when did that comment violoate any mountain project rules? I have seen it posted hundreds of times here when gumbys appear to be getting in over their heads. Geeze you guys are sensitive, mods you need a tissue to dry those tears or what?

Jeremy1701 wrote:Thanks, Carl. I'll likely pick it up this weekend. I'm hoping they have one at REI or the the visitors center.

Visitor's center is doubtful. REI, Erewhon, and Wildside in Baraboo all carry it.

DexterRutecki wrote:Yer gonna die... Since when did that comment violoate any mountain project rules? I have seen it posted hundreds of times here when gumbys appear to be getting in over their heads. Geeze you guys are sensitive, mods you need a tissue to dry those tears or what?

Yes, Jeremy based on what you're posting and the way you are posting it, you might just die...Try not to take it personally but none of us know who you are so I'm going to say the following;

-Don't fuck this up, you might die and you would make the rest of climbers look like reckless nuts.

-Be VERY confident in you anchor skills and rappel techniques or you might die.

Here's a link to a MP discussion on rappels: mountainproject.com/v/thoug…

Here's a link to an accident report related to the method of rappel I think you are going to try: rockandice.com/articles/how…

Here's link about someone who fucked up and killed someone else: mountainproject.com/v/death…

The vistors center doesn't carry guidebooks, near by Wildside gear shop in Baraboo does or REI.

In addition think about taking an anchors course.

As a former gym manager I can't tell you how many people would come in claiming to have climbed or rappelled for "years" yet couldn't even tie in correctly, so I think you can understand my skepticism.

If you do, in fact, have your shit togather I apologize for the lecture.

You can guess, and expect, some grief here at MP climbing site. I also suggest picking a weekday, and an out of the way place like RR Amphitheater or up to Horse Ramparts for your rappels. Definately not on East Bluff ramparts or down Watermarks at Balanced Rock Wall. Out of the way and unseen will earn you points here, that's for sure. And we trust you have read alot or have quality instruction on what to do and how to do it. They just had another accident, a hiker fall and death at DL last week so do pay attention to your set ups and location choice.

Thanks for your concern. I understand your trepidation at a newb coming and acting caviler. Trust me, no body likes being alive more than I do! I hear your warnings and will take precautions. I'm not claiming to be an advanced rappeller. I've been rappelling in the Grand Canyon in the past with others who taught me the ropes. Here in WI, I've been climbing quite a few times indoors and have also done some rappelling. I can at least tie in correctly. I'd like to get out and get some additional rappelling experience so that in future, I can experience some of the more adventuresome canyoneering routes on the Colorado Plateau.

That being said, I plan on using webbing anchored to the most secure object possible. For example, a 3 wrap 2 pull on a tree or perhaps just a loop on a very large (i.e., unmovable) boulder. I've rapped off trees here in WI before and boulders in the GC. I'll use a water knot for the webbing/anchor. For the initial descent, I'll have a backup anchor in place as well. Rope is 11mm - static.

The link you provided for the rope pull setup is close to what I was planning to use, only I wouldn't use a knot against a rapide. Instead, I'll be using a carabiner block with a clove hitch against a rap ring. For the initial decent, the rope will be backed up to both the main anchor and the backup anchor. Everything will be backed up for the first couple of descents, then after I'm comfortable with the setup, I'll try the biner block only so I can practice retrieving the rope. The last two photos under "Long Rappel" in this link are close to the setup I'll be using (note that I'll be using an ATC instead of a Priana).

canyoneeringusa.com/utah/te…

This setup is pretty much what I was taught in the GC for repelling/rope retrieval. I'm taking the extra precautions b/c it will be my first time going without someone looking over my shoulder. If you have ideas for additional precautions I can/should take, I'm open to suggestions.

Jeremy1701 wrote:If you have ideas for additional precautions I can/should take, I'm open to suggestions.

Here's a suggestion. Don't ask for sport rappelling advice on a climbing site. That's dumber than sport rappelling.

Good luck on your planned epic de-send.

I'd suggest you don't go anywhere near ANYTHING that someone might be inclined to climb. The truly hard core "repellers" know enough to stay away from climbing routes.

Just one question for the system, Why?

If you have been climbing inside and know how to set up anchors why not just climb? How fun can rappelling down the same rope time and time again be? Go climb and rappel at the end of the day after you make it to the top.

I gotta admit I started out as a rap' person. But got bored after just 2 outings and switched to climbing soon after that. Sooo much more to do as a climber, that's for sure. Mountain rappels often meant leaving gear behind too, so that was not economically smart either.

I'm reminded of a debate I once sat in on, where a bunch of climbers were trying to tell a caver his rap anchor was inadequate because ... well, essentially they wanted him to build a lead climbing anchor, because that was the only standard anyone had ever discussed with them.

Jeremy, one thing to keep in mind when rappeling at Devils Lake is that our Baraboo quartzite has lots of sharp little edges. These are more of a problem when top-roping and lowering than they will be for rappeling, but you want to be careful not to swing from side-to-side too much on rappel so you don't saw your rope back and forth along an edge. I'm talking about avoiding *big* swings. Little swings will just abrade your rope a bit. I've seen several ropes "degloved" (core-shot) by big swings and by being pulled through sharp, narrow cracks.

Another thing to keep in mind is that, despite the heavy use this area sees, there are still a number of loose blocks and flakes. Be sure of what you use as an anchor.

Major Mass (under Devils Doorway) and Minor Mass (between Devils Doorway and the Potholes trail) might be fun areas for rappeling. Be sure to check down below before you throw a rope. Major Mass especially has multiple levels for you to explore, and might be about as good a simulation of a canyoneering problem as you'll find at the Lake.

Tell us what works out well for you, so we can give better advice to the next rappeler who comes along!

Agree Major/Minor mass areas are a good place to experience difficulties and offer some nice raps.

Thanks to those who offered sound advice and possible locations. Doug, I will be sure to use a rope sheath and report back on what worked best. Woodchuck and Burt, I do plan on picking up outdoor climbing, I just need a few more pieces of gear. One new adventure at a time!

Maybe I'll see some of you out there this weekend.

try taking a half day class with a local outfitter to get a good base of knowledge on rap anchor set up and safe raps. Better yet, take a climbing class with them and learn how climb with rapping being included. They will put you on a belayed rappel with the proper rope and equipment. one possible is verticaladventure.org they service DL and the Midwest. Good Luck and BE SAFE!

Buy more rope, in theory pulling a rope with a thin line is a great idea but in practice thin lines get snagged more often then an 11mm static line ever will. Also the knot and clove hitched carabiner offer further potential for the rig to snag when being retrieved.

Yes 11mm cord is bulkier and heavier but also easier to retrieve and more versatile.

As others have mentioned please stay away from popular areas when rappelling at the lake.

The rapelling trip to Devils Lake was a success. We picked up the book, Climber's Guide to Devils Lake, at Wildside. As a Wisconsinitte, I'm happy to support these local authors, publishers and book sellers.

On the advice of the owner of the store, we hit up the north end of the East Bluff Trail. We rapped off some bluffs in the Elephant Rock area first. It was an excellent place to start. The quartzite at Devils Lake is much different than the granite and sandstone of the Southwest that we learned on. Even with my 5.10's, I had a hard time sticking to the face of the bluff. As we got more comfortable, we moved on to a bigger bluff in the same area. We were ready to tackle some of the really big bluffs in the Tomahawk Rocks area, but it began to rain so we decided to call it quits.

The biner block worked perfectly. After a few practice runs, I went ahead and removed the redundant anchors, rapped down using just the block with the rope bag, and was able to retrive the rope with no problems. At the second bluff, I didn't even try as the biner would have surely gotten wedged in a crack.

We never saw a single climber in either the Elephant or Tomahawk Rocks areas. Had we, we would have moved on to another spot.

Thanks again to those who offered worthwhile suggestions or advice.