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The Prow and The VMC Direct free climbing beta...

Original Post
Josh Janes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 9,954

It's my understanding that these are the two classic multipitch routes to do in New Hampshire?

I'm hoping to climb both of them during a brief trip this summer, but since I'll be traveling and want to pack light, I was wondering if I could get some beta on a couple things: Like, what would the minimal (reasonable) rack be for (me to climb) each of them? Especially useful would be knowing the biggest cam that's absolutely necessary.

Also, for the VMC Direct in particular, could I rappel with a single 60, 70, or 80m rope, or do I need two ropes if I don't want to do the jungle pitches at the top?

Lastly, any other useful free climbing beta - or free-climbing beta - would be welcomed!

Noah Haber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 78

Those are certainly two of the proudest multipitch lines in NH. Unfortunately, the summer is probably not the best time to try them, both due to heat and the blackflies. Hope for a breezy day. VMC DD has no shelter and is in direct sunlight for most of the day.

VMC DD: The line I think you want is the VMC Direct Direct, which is different than the Direct. It's confusing, I know. You are going to need to bring double ropes if you are even thinking about rapping it, as the pitches are long. Also, not sure what there is in terms of fixed rap gear after pitch 5. Someone else can chime in here. The descent is very hard to find if you've never seen it before.

As for rack, small cams and nuts are king. You can get away with a single rack of cams up to a BD #2, but a #3 is handy, as is doubling up the #.75 and #1. Double up on small cams, preferably of different makes.

Prow: All I can say about the prow is that you want small brass wires.

J. Nickel · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2006 · Points: 100

I've only done the first 4 pitches of the VMC Direct Direct, which are outstanding. We rapped using a 60M and a tag line but I recall thinking that a single 70M would probably have worked. I don't think we placed anything bigger than a #1 Camalot on those pitches. We didn't continue up through the Cow's Mouth pitches on VMC Direct so I can't comment on the gear for them or if you can rap before the 8th and 9th pitches

bayard russell jr · · Madison, NH · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 310

For the Prow, a #2 Camalot down to a blue Metolius, a light rack of nuts and some draws.. there's tons of fixed gear and the pitches are short. Its a really good route!

Not sure about rapping the Direct Direct with a single 70, I bet it would work, two 60's do for sure. You can rap from the pitch below the Cow's Mouth from a new anchor up and left. I'm a fan of the top out myself - the walk off is beautiful - just head north, stay close to the cliff edge and always drop down and right. You know you're getting close when you see this weird mushroom-shaped boulder out by the edge - when you see it there is a little goat path that heads right to it. From there you drop way down and right and you end up on top of where the Old Man once hung. Can't mistake that, turnbuckles everywhere and what not.

Enjoy! You can catch a cool day on Cannon in the summer and the Prow is in the shade after 2pm or so. Plenty of time for free climbing.. it's only just of 400' long!

Noah Haber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 78
bayard russell jr wrote:For the Prow, a #2 Camalot down to a blue Metolius, a light rack of nuts and some draws.. there's tons of fixed gear and the pitches are short. Its a really good route! Not sure about rapping the Direct Direct with a single 70, I bet it would work, two 60's do for sure. You can rap from the pitch below the Cow's Mouth from a new anchor up and left. I'm a fan of the top out myself - the walk off is beautiful - just head north, stay close to the cliff edge and always drop down and right. You know you're getting close when you see this weird mushroom-shaped boulder out by the edge - when you see it there is a little goat path that heads right to it. From there you drop way down and right and you end up on top of where the Old Man once hung. Can't mistake that, turnbuckles everywhere and what not. Enjoy! You can catch a cool day on Cannon in the summer and the Prow is in the shade after 2pm or so. Plenty of time for free climbing.. it's only just of 400' long!
Listen to this guy ^^^^. He knows his shit, can walk all my dream projects wearing crocs on his hands and vaseline on his feet, and then has the nerve to be a really nice guy about it.
Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,945
shoo wrote: Listen to this guy ^^^^. He knows his shit, can walk all my dream projects wearing crocs on his hands and vaseline on his feet, and then has the nerve to be a really nice guy about it.
haahah that's an awesome description!
Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
shoo wrote: Listen to this guy ^^^^. He knows his shit, can walk all my dream projects wearing crocs on his hands and vaseline on his feet, and then has the nerve to be a really nice guy about it.
haha if this was on my grave I could be happy..
lucander · · Stone Ridge, NY · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 260

Be aware that VMC DD and The Prow are both notorious for seeming, particularly at the cruxes. I can't speak to the VMC, but aiding through water on The Prow is very easy.

The Prow goes easily with a single 60m cord, you can rap/bail at any point below the roof should a storm blow through. We did this with a single rack to #1, and we're not nearly the kind of climber as the afore-mentioned Mr. Russell.

Josh Janes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 9,954

Thanks for the beta guys - this is exactly the stuff I'm after. For some reason I have this surely crazy notion that, for a pathetic western climber such as myself, I'm going to find the approach/descent/route finding stuff fairly trivial but the ratings to be rather stiff. We'll see. As far as the season goes I don't really have a choice on the matter, but I'm hoping that the early arrival of the black flies this year will also mean an early departure... ugh.

Sounds like I don't need anything micro-micro or tricksy for the Prow, and nothing too big for the VMC. Thanks again for the super-helpful beta and if anyone has anything to add, I'm listening!

Andrew Mertens · · Fort Collins · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 136

A lot of people who rappel VMC DD climb the first 4 pitches. (which is actually all of VMC DD. At the top of fourth pitch VMC Direct Direct meets up with the line of VMC Direct.) I've only done the first four pitches of VMC DD. My understanding is that the upper pitches get more run-out and adventurous, but stay as hard. But if you do the Prow, you should be fine. As the lower pitches are at my limit, I have been working up the nerve to go for it. The lower pitches really don't need anything large than a 0.75-1, and can take as many 0.3-0.4 cams as you can bring. Small c3's are also useful in spots. I think you want a hand sized cam for the Cow's Mouth if you go to the top.
I'm almost positive you can rap the lower four pitches with a 70m, but I have always used doubles. I'm pretty sure I've gotten down in two raps from the top of the fourth pitch in two rappels, and all the anchors have bolts. But I'm not absolutely certain. If you do rappel, you should also go climb Vertigo, which, although a lot easier at 5.9, is mega-classic, and you also rap off of. You would want the same gear, plus a #2 or two.

divnamite · · New York, NY · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 90

How's the black flies condition right now? Thinking about heading up and do Recom-Beast this weekend. Thanks!

Jeffrey LeCours · · New Hampshire · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 1,381
shoo wrote: Listen to this guy ^^^^. He knows his shit, can walk all my dream projects wearing crocs on his hands and vaseline on his feet, and then has the nerve to be a really nice guy about it.
Fantastic! (A secret inspiration of mine as well)
john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

The DD gets tricky after P5 or so.. route finding ,a bit of loose rock and some shakey gear. Awesome climbing though !!! if you rap after 4 then you really didn't do the climb.

Prow is not as fixed as it once was but still a lot. 4-5 short, stout pitches. I would say 3 sections of REAL 11+ maybe 4. i don't think anymore than 2" gear.

Wild Women, just left of the Prow is maybe a better route and about as hard... just brilliant 11+ and 12a boulder situation up high.

Two other real classics that don't get done much are Lab Wall on Cannon and Lights In The Forest ..Cathedral..great climbs

CCliffe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2011 · Points: 125

The black flies still suck - though not as bad as past years.

I would link p 4 & 5 on the prow, it just makes sense. A very light rack is all you need. Gear anchor at the top of p 5 (above the roof). It is still seeping at the crux bulge. Great route.

I support the rec for Wild Women - fantastic. That gets in the shade a little bit later in the day.

Noah Haber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 78
Josh Janes wrote:For some reason I have this surely crazy notion that, for a pathetic western climber such as myself, I'm going to find the approach/descent/route finding stuff fairly trivial. . .
I am quoting this. Bring a bright headlamp and a sharp machete.
burlap submariner · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 170

Josh, If you really wanted to get some solid NH routes in you should get on Labyrinth wall direct on cannon, and Women in Love on cathedral. Yes, that is what you want.

burlap submariner · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 170

If you do end up doing the prow, those nice thin techy things will come in handy before the triangular roof getting in the corner, there is a pin near the bottom that while fixed moves quite a bit. Make damn sure you do the 5.10 variant first pitch, it makes for a complete outing.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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