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Elevation: 1,313 ft
GPS: 49.6346, 11.5316
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Shawn Heath on Jul 2, 2011
Admins: Shawn Heath
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Description Suggest change

The most popular climbing area in Frankenjura. There are almost 50 routes here ranging from UIAA 2 to 9+ (5.1 to 5.13a), so there is definitely something for everyone. This is also a very kid friendly place and it even has a nice port-a-potty with a mirror and no stink! Amazing! While there is obviously bound to be some polish on the holds of the most popular crag in the Frankenjura, the routes are all VERY good quality. The rock is very pocketed allowing for lots of great holds.
The left side of the crag is where the easier stuff is. The rock is generally straight up, though some routes are a bit slabby while some others are a bit overhung.
The right side of the crag is quite overhung and is home to some very good 8s (5.11s - Entsafter, Dampfhammer, Wilde 13).
Wolfgang Guellich and Kurt Albert spent some time honing their skills and putting up some routes here. Some good Wolfgang selections are Verlobungsweg (7-), 1. Affäre (7), and Krampfhammer (9). Some good Kurt selections are Panische Zeiten (7+), Dampfhammer (8), and Entsafter (8+).
The name means "White Stone".

The area is also very kid-friendly with the even, grassy area. And you don't even need a stroller for this short approach!

Getting There Suggest change

Driving here is also relatively uncomplicated. From Nuremberg, take the A9 to the Plech exit (Exit 46). Head towards Plech. After driving through Plech, head towards Neuhaus and stay on this road through Höfen. After leaving Höfen, continue straight for approximately 1.5km until you see a turn-off on the left which is probably full of cars already. You'll also be able to see the rock from here. Drive past the exit of the loop and enter on the Eingang side to park here. Get out and walk straight up to the route you want to do. You may have to wait in line...

33 Total Climbs

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Location: Weißenstein Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Weißenstein

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 7
● Boulderwandl
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 8
● Annelore
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
● Don’t Worry Be Happy
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
● Eieruhr
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
● Kaminpfeiler (R 7)
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
● Verlobungsweg
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
● Panische Zeiten
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
 4
● Akku
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 6
● Wilde 13
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 7
● Dampfhammer
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
● Entsafter
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 4
● Krampfhammer
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Boulderwandl
 7
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● Annelore
 8
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
● Don’t Worry Be Happy
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Eieruhr
 4
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Kaminpfeiler (R 7)
 7
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Verlobungsweg
 6
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Panische Zeiten
 8
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Akku
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R Sport
● Wilde 13
 6
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
● Dampfhammer
 7
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Entsafter
 7
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Krampfhammer
 4
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Weißenstein »

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Photos

The gully-like yet climbable section of Weißenstein.
The gully-like yet climbable section of Weißens…
 0
The right side of Weissenstein, with climbers on Damphammer (near) and Panische Zeiten (far).
The right side of Weissenstein, with climbers o…
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Yellow is Zwischenfall, Black is R 7, Blue is Akku, Red is Verlobungsweg, Green is R 9, Purple is Mon Marie, Orange is Buchenleiter, and the blue route coming off of Buchenleiter is Rechte Kante.
Yellow is Zwischenfall, Black is R 7, Blue is A…
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My mom after her first climb at 54 years old!
My mom after her first climb at 54 years old!
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Red is Mondnavigation (5+), blue is Trepperl (7-), purple is 7up (7), and yellow is Nullnummer (6-).
Red is Mondnavigation (5+), blue is Trepperl (7…
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Blue is Lukas, red is Schlingenweg, yellow is Beamtenleiter.
Blue is Lukas, red is Schlingenweg, yellow is B…
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Most of the routes here have some degree of overhang. Here's Aran Durham fighting the pump on Buchenleiter.
Most of the routes here have some degree of ove…
 0
Red is Eieruhr, Blue is Don't Worry Be Happy, and yellow is Muffengang.
Red is Eieruhr, Blue is Don't Worry Be Happy, a…
 0
The yellow route is R 3, blue is Boulderwandl, green is Annelore, and red is Zwischenfall.<br>
The yellow route is R 3, blue is Boulderwandl,…
 0
The overhanging nature of the routes on the right side of this crag mean that you can climb here even in the rain (you might get a bit wet at the top though).
The overhanging nature of the routes on the rig…
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Just 6 of the 20 routes, variations, and traverses on the right side of the crag.
Just 6 of the 20 routes, variations, and traver…
 0
The parking area next to Wiessenstein is a 1 minute walk to climbing.
The parking area next to Wiessenstein is a 1 mi…
 0

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