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Where to go around Boulder to get comfortable falling on trad gear

Original Post
BoulderCharles · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 95

The time has come for me to just take some falls on trad gear. I'm looking for an area around Boulder where I can do this safely (read: top rope for backup, good gear placements, good position for my belayer, clear fall line, etc.). Any thoughts?

talkinrocks · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 80
slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

i wouldn't really recommend happy hour, as a lot of the routes are over-featured (ie not steep, have ledges or corners, etc). what sort of grades are we talking? if less than 5.10, most of the routes in those ranges in the boulder area will require careful consideration of the same problem.

if we are talking the 11 range, probably the single best whip i can think of is off the top headwall crack on countryclub crack - excellent gear, tons of rope out for a soft big whip, plenty steep with a roof below (just be sure to clear the roof so you don't get your teeth knocked out).

rob.calm · · Loveland, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 630

Here's some good advice to read before deciding to fall on traditional climbs Advice to the beginning trad leader around falling--don't;page=unread#unread

Cheers,
Rob.calm

Evan S · · Denver, Co · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 510

Practice falling on trad gear wont help you. It will mess up your cams and fix your nuts. If you're scared, double up on pieces and back everything up as your leading until you feel confident in your placements. There are some smaller roofs in the SSV (on Observatory Rock, etc.) you could play with if you insist, but don't waste your time in my opinion.

Jeff Chrisler · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 145

If you aren't comfortable leading trad, and worried about falling, then I'd do a few things-
1. Get someone to look at your placements- ie an experienced friend or ideally a guide to critique and suggest better ideal placements in certain situations
2. Take lots of falls on sport- get used to falling there if you aren't already
3. Don't fall on trad leads - once you're comfortable with your placements there's no reason to start testing them out and f-ing up your gear and potentially yourself. Just climb, and a fall will happen at some point.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711

I was going to suggest a good therapist...

wankel7 · · Indiana · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 10
Evan S wrote:Practice falling on trad gear wont help you. It will mess up your cams and fix your nuts. If you're scared, double up on pieces and back everything up as your leading until you feel confident in your placements. There are some smaller roofs in the SSV (on Observatory Rock, etc.) you could play with if you insist, but don't waste your time in my opinion.
It helped me after spending three days taking Arno's falling and commitment class...it was a pretty awesome 3 days!

If you were to avoid a practice fall because it might mess up your gear then you might be afraid of messing up your gear in addition to falling on it. Fun!
Kevin Murphy · · Longmont, CO · Joined Feb 2005 · Points: 397

Agree with this being a bad practice, mileage on easy terrain is the best way to get prepared for gear climbing.Falls will happen.

Evan S · · Denver, Co · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 510
wankel7 wrote: It helped me after spending three days taking Arno's falling and commitment class...it was a pretty awesome 3 days! If you were to avoid a practice fall because it might mess up your gear then you might be afraid of messing up your gear in addition to falling on it. Fun!
I guess I've taken enough I wasn't planning for, and therefor have a different view. I don't care about my gear, it's cheap enough, I just want it in prime shape in case it actually has to save my life.
Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

I just chant "leader must not fall" as I navigate tricky sections. And when I do fall, well I sure do hope that last piece was not just mental pro.

In all seriousness I am a relatively new trad leader and I would not practice taking whippers on my gear. If it is cheap you should probably invest in better gear. My rack is far from cheap, matter of fact it is the second biggest investment in my life right behind my car and gaining. I treat all of the pieces like babies. I do want them to be in top shape when I do need my life saved so I don't whip on them "just to be sure of my gear"

Guy Kenny Jr · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 10

Diving board.

Prod.

Evan S · · Denver, Co · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 510
JonathanHillis wrote:I just chant "leader must not fall" as I navigate tricky sections. And when I do fall, well I sure do hope that last piece was not just mental pro. In all seriousness I am a relatively new trad leader and I would not practice taking whippers on my gear. If it is cheap you should probably invest in better gear. My rack is far from cheap, matter of fact it is the second biggest investment in my life right behind my car and gaining. I treat all of the pieces like babies. I do want them to be in top shape when I do need my life saved so I don't whip on them "just to be sure of my gear"
By cheap, I mean an $80 cam is nothing compared my life or $30,000 in medical bills.
Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

I understand your use of the word cheap... My point is that I pay a lot of money for my gear, I baby it, and because of that I expect it to hold me when I fall. Taking whippers on it is not going to build confidence in it. The only thing that will build confidence in my gear is solid placements. I slap a tri cam in give it a jerk and climb above it knowing that it is bomber. Because really you coulld place a hundred pieces and whip on them and they hold, then whip on one with a bit of a run out and it fail, purely because the placement was a little different.

KevinCO · · Loveland, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 60

Yes, place anchors from ground level, put a sling on it and bounce test. Wear a helmet and don't look at the piece while testing it. If it pops, it will come out like a sling shot.

Guy Kenny Jr · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 10

"If you want to learn to place gear, suggest building anchors near the ground, then move to aiding some pitches.
"

Agree with this completely. Go aid some easy cracks, that is the best way to see if gear is good or not. Fuck falling, that shit is scary.

Prod.

nbrown · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 7,718

If you don't trust your gear, go do a few clean aid pitches. You'll have to hang on every piece, quickly building your confidence in what works and what doesn't. A lot of placements look okay when your new and don't think your gonna actually fall (while on lead) - 'til you realize that you actually might, then of course, your perspective changes.

Falling in general is different - to me it's no difference whether on gear or bolts (I'm usually scared either way...).

Edit: someone already beat me to the above suggestion.

Ben Walburn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 680

I heard you ask a question about taking your trad climbing to the next step. I'm rather surprised at some of the responses. It appears that some are assuming you are not ready to start leading harder climbs via the conservative minded question you asked. Assuming that what was written above in feedback by all the other contributors as steps in the progress of learning to climb safely have already been done, and you feel you have sufficient mileage practicing to step it up a notch then do just that, STEP IT UP. Find a climb that test your onsight ability, has good pro, is maybe on the steeper side for safety and just go for it. That is the "LEAP OF FAITH". To reccomend appropriate areas or climbs would require the grade that makes you think you are going to fall. I fall on gear all the time, on small gear and it works, every time. I have never pulled a piece in 18 years, but we all have have different experiences.

Good luck be safe

Keny Glasscock · · Salt Lake City · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 95

Until you have actually fallen on gear you haven't fallen on gear. Work on placement on the ground: angle of rope travel, scenario's, slinging gear properly, etc. Then clean, clean, clean. I think you get more knowledge cleaning gear than you get from falling on it. Pay your dues on the belay ledge and then get on the sharp end, on a climb that you aren't going to fall or get all jimmy legged on and have at it. OJT is the best teacher.

AnthonyM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 30

I learned to trad climb through a college class that dealt with "Technical Anchor Building." The final involved building a three piece anchor and loading it with 500+Lbs. I placed so much gear and had a ton of evaluations/advice... It was amazing. If you can find something like this-you ought to take advantage of such. As with the posts prior, placing gear from the ground level is great-even do it while camping, find a rock that will take gear and play around-see what happens.

Falling on your own gear is spectacularly frightening... After taking a whipper you get to look up and see your piece bend, adjust/settle, and hope it holds. I would never want to do it intentionally. Beware of the "zipper effect" when one piece rips, the next one, and the next one... Never seen it but have heard horror stories.

When in doubt/prior to the crux place TWO bomber pieces. I cannot stress this enough. If you can spare the piece it will help you climb more safely... it also alerts your belayer that you are entering a hard spot (you could just communicate verbally) and can build confidence for the hard moves-knowing you are secured.

Also consider sport climbing but placing between bolts, place as much as possible, have someone experienced follow you... Get lowered and see what pieces pop.

GregParker · · Denver, CO · Joined May 2008 · Points: 230

I wouldn't take 100 practice falls onto my gear, but don't see a problem with some practice falls. I don't know your financial situation, but for most, damaging an $80 cam would be a very small price to pay to get rid of a fear a falling.

The best place I can think of to take a practice fall is Headline (.10a) at Little Eiger in Clear Creek Canyon. It has everything you are looking for. It is slightly overhung at the top for super clean falls, takes bomber gear (.5, .75, 1 BD cams if memory serves), and great belayer spot. The best part for you is... it is a sport climb, so you can back all of your gear up.

I agree with a lot of the above comments.

1. Get comfortable taking lead falls on sport routes.
2. Get lots of milage trad climbing. Inspect your own pieces, inspect others, and have others inspect yours.
3. Falls happen. I don't agree with the "leader must not fall" idea for general climbing. If you think this way, just solo. Of course it is different if you run it out or you are on R/X climbs.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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