Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Mountain Project has launched a new site: Powder Project, and we're giving away loads of gear, including skis & Oakley goggles. Check it out!
Shaking out at the slab crux.
Id# 107596513, 960 x 640px View full size
Comments on Photo Add Comment
By dnaiscool
Jan 13, 2015
Thia team linked P2 &3 together, which is not a good idea. You lose the shared experience of that airy belay on the Bat Walk. You are really separated as the leader gets into the .11a crux shown here, and because of all the rope between the leader & belayer, a fall from the finger rail after the crux (and where many will get quite pumped) would be excessively long, not to mention the rope drag. There is a time and place to link pitches, but given the light this team had, they were in no hurry to beat the sunset. Just sayin': Do THIS climb as it was originally freed for the maximum, premium effect. Now, if you have done the route a million times, then this makes sense, unless your second bumbles the .11a moves into the Balogna Slicer, for they will drop a long ways with all that rope out...
Photo 12 of 22
Avg Score   5.0 from 1 votes
Your Score   

Shaking out at the slab crux.

Submitted By: Ben May on May 7, 2012
On this route:
The Vampire (5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c )
 Printer View


Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
and Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!