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Routes in Upper Broadway
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Alcoa Presents T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bogtrotter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Castor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Castor to Terror T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Changeling, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Conn's East T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Conn's East Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Conn's East Lieback Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dinah Moe-Hum T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Dirty Old Man T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Discontent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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East Face to Gunsight Notch T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Frosted Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Grand Finale T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hamburger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Heavy Fuel T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Hidden Assets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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High Test T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hopeful Illusions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Hopeful Illusions Direct Finish T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Icing on the Cake T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Kid Galahad and the Sunshine Boys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Low Octane T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lunge or Plunge T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Mr. Jones S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Natural Mystic T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Nip and Tuck T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Off Broadway Show T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Orangeaid T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Orion's belt T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Orion’s Belt Direct Finish T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Pancho and Lefty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pickleright T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Pollux T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Put A Wiggle In Your Stride S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rasp S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Soler T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Soler - Variation: Soler Escape T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Spock's Brain T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Talbert Picklefish T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Terminal Velocity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Terra Firma Homesick Blues T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Time Flies T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Vietnam Veterans Against the Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Vision, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | FA: Stearns, Kolbucher, Hecker & Crooks, 1944; FFA Herb and Jan Conn, 1948 |
| Page Views: | 11,668 total · 64/month |
| Shared By: | Andy Weinmann on Jun 2, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Andy Weinmann, Pat Goodman |
Description
This long, continuously traversing climb is a good introduction to Seneca's East Face; it crosses and shares belays with many of the area classics. It begins on Upper Broadway about 40 to 50 feet left of the twin cracks of Castor and Pollux.
Pitch 1: Climb a right-trending ramp/flake and ledge/corner system with a couple of trees about halfway up (good optional belay in a crack behind the trees on a ledge). Pass the trees, move up a chimney and then the face a long ledge. Traverse right on the ledge to a set of anchors at the far end. There is a set of anchors when you first come up but skip these and keep going right on the ledge.
Pitch 2: Plug some good gear right off the ledge and climb the short imposing corner up and out to the right, aiming for an obvious pin. Pass the pin and use big jugs to move up to another ledge large ledge. Traverse right on the ledge to either set of bolt anchors (the right set is more convenient for P3) This short pitch is the main crux of the route.
Pitch 3: Continue right along the ledge to an obvious wide crack/flake and corner system that widens to a chimney at the top and ends at a large block stuck in the top. Work up this and sort out the top out moves to surmount the block. Move a bit right and build a belay near the top of the route Gunsight to South Peak.
Pitch 4: A few final moves will get you to the summit. Traverse carefully along the ledge to the south and make a belay at the south end near the summit register box.
Location
Begin on Upper Broadway Ledge, a bit left of the middle area. If you locate the twin cracks of Castor and Pollux (right when you come up the approach trail), the start is to left about 25 yds. There is a jumble of boulders at the start and the ledge goes downhill a bit just beyond the start area.
Descend to the east via the Orangeaid or Alcoa Presents rappel stations from the summit area or the Old Ladies/West Pole rappels further down the summit ledge on the east face. Descend to the west side via the Conn's West or Traffic Jam rap routes with a single rope or the summit rappel (Pleasant Overhangs) or the West Pole rap routes with 2 ropes. The PO rap route is a mandatory 2 rappel rap route with 2 ropes.
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