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Best Multi-Pitch Sport Routes in North America

Original Post
Zack Wentz · · Issaquah, WA · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 265

Hey everyone. I'm from Boulder, CO, and I'm fairly new to rock climbing. I've climbed outdoors for about 3 months now, and thus far have led 5.10a outdoors. I've done one multi-pitch sport climb in Boulder Canyon (Buried Treasure, 5.9) and absolutely loved it. Does anyone know similar multi-pitch sport routes anywhere in North America (US and Canada) that are within the same grade?

NC Rock Climber · · The Oven, AKA Phoenix · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 60
mountainproject.com/v/el-po…

El Potrero Chico is the ticket. There are a lot more climbs there than are listed in on MP. It is multi-pitch sport paradise.
Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245

Yea, Mexico has more multi-pitch sport than you could ever climb. I've heard of bolted limestone sport in Canada, and know for sure that there is some in Montana as well. There was a recent article in R&I I believe, about the scene in Montana - mentioned some big bolted routes.

Honestly though, the ticket to getting up of the deck in NAmer is trad. You don't have to clip a certain amount of bolts to "be ready" for trad climbing and you don't have to climb a certain grade to have fun. You happen to live in an area that is stacked full of easy and moderate traditional classics. Get out there!

Josh Kornish · · Whitefish, MT · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 800

Around Missoula there are some pretty nice Multi pitch sport routes. The ethic in MT is that to not bolt if it can take natural pro.

I would check out Leavenworth, Washington!! Some really long sport routes with a nice 'alpine' feel to them

Stuart Ritchie · · Aurora, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 1,725

For very long routes try; Blackleaf Canyon,Montana, North Face of Chinaman's,Alberta, Squaw Peak,Utah.

Chinaman's

Blackleaf

Squaw Peak

Josh Kornish · · Whitefish, MT · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 800
Jonny Greenlee · · Denver, CO · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 280

If you're looking for anything closer to Boulder:
I'm not sure if its open due to falcon nesting, but there is a 4 pitch 5.9 also in BoCan, The Young and the Rackless. There is a 2 pitch 5.9 at the Solaris crag. Over at Clear Creek there is a 4 pitch 5.8, Playin' Hooky.
The 5.10a version of Buried Treasure is also a lot of fun- do the Stayin Alive finish pitch to get on top of Tonnere Tower.

Zack Wentz wrote:Hey everyone. I'm from Boulder, CO, and I'm fairly new to rock climbing. I've climbed outdoors for about 3 months now, and thus far have led 5.10a outdoors. I've done one multi-pitch sport climb in Boulder Canyon (Buried Treasure, 5.9) and absolutely loved it. Does anyone know similar multi-pitch sport routes anywhere in North America (US and Canada) that are within the same grade?
Bill M · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 317

Red Rocks for sure. mountainproject.com/v/princ…

Cocanower · · The High Country · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 55

throw the draws away man! super sik cracks out here

Peter Rakowitz · · Portland, OR · Joined May 2010 · Points: 440
Tom Grummon · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 30

Check out the Mission Wall in Clear Creek. Close and fun. Aslo, Playing Hooky is pretty darn good to.

Rob Dillon · · Tamarisk Clearing · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 760

Lotta Front Range sportos come to the Monitor lately:

mountainproject.com/v/monit…

shotgunnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2009 · Points: 5

There is only one multi pitch climb you could get up at black leaf at that grade so I wouldn't call that a good suggestion. Once you get into 10+ 11- you should check it out. That place is one of my favorites.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
Zack Wentz wrote:Hey everyone. I'm from Boulder, CO, and I'm fairly new to rock climbing. I've climbed outdoors for about 3 months now, and thus far have led 5.10a outdoors. I've done one multi-pitch sport climb in Boulder Canyon (Buried Treasure, 5.9) and absolutely loved it. Does anyone know similar multi-pitch sport routes anywhere in North America (US and Canada) that are within the same grade?
So although I'm a little confused by the direction of your post, why don't you just go up to lumpy ridge in Estes park? Tons of granite like Bocan, lots of moderate multi pitch.

That would make alot more sense in my mind, instead of doing one multi-pitch then embarking on a tour of North America.

Climb the MULTIPLE moderate climbs that are within an hour of where you live.
Jon Lachelt · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Feb 2007 · Points: 0
Scott McMahon wrote:... why don't you just go up to lumpy ridge in Estes park?...
He specifically asked about "sport" climbs. Are there some 5.9 sport climbs at Lumpy?
Aaron Olson · · Seattle, WA · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 5

Infinite Bliss in North Bend, WA (about 45 minutes from Seattle). It is a 23-pitch "sport" climb, with HUGE runouts on 5.2 climbing. There are 5 pitches 5.10 and above, crux being 5.10c. You have to rapp the route, which kind of sucks, but it is well worth the effort! From the top you are about 3500 above the river below, super exposed!

Daniel Wade · · Oakland, CA. · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 55

Come to Cali! loved this one: mountainproject.com/v/sunse…

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
Jon Lachelt wrote: He specifically asked about "sport" climbs. Are there some 5.9 sport climbs at Lumpy?
Ah good catch. Missed that one. So here's two somewhat local.

mountainproject.com/v/waiti…
mountainproject.com/v/royal…

My unsolicited opinion says to either find a trad buddy to climb with or invest that travel cash on some gear. Or haha take NC's advice and just move to Mexico. :o)
John D · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 10

If you're up for a bit of a road trip, city of rocks is pretty good. Theater of shadows is fantastic, maybe a bit below the grade your looking for, but sport bolted and 4 pitches. Have a look. mountainproject.com/v/theat…

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
Aaron O wrote:Infinite Bliss in North Bend, WA (about 45 minutes from Seattle). It is a 23-pitch "sport" climb, with HUGE runouts on 5.2 climbing. There are 5 pitches 5.10 and above, crux being 5.10c. You have to rapp the route, which kind of sucks, but it is well worth the effort! From the top you are about 3500 above the river below, super exposed!
Although a fun route, that is not a sport climb. That thing is R/X. When I climbed it I remember two pitches where the only pro was the belay station, I was runout 120' with no pro. Granted I may have missed a bolt, but so did the four guys behind me. But most of it is fairly well bolted. Just know that there are some easier moves where if you fall, well, lets say I hope you have health insurance.

Also, there is some serious rock fall on that thing once and awhile. A party 1500' above us dislodged a rock which ended up bringing a landslide down on me and another party. Out of four people, I was the only one that did not get hit by the rock fall. I was astonished no one was seriously injured, the rock fall was serious enough to wipe all four of us off the the grid. We were lucky that were in a small alcove, so a lot of the rock flew a few feet over our heads.

None, the less it was a fun route. Just don't approach it as a sport climb, as it is not.
Nick Wilder · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 4,098
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