the ultimate bd rack for Colorado/Utah

Assuming retail prices paid, call it $60/cam avg:

Camalots:
1x.4
2x.5 - 3
1x 4
Totem Basic:
1x green, yellow
Set of stoppers
C3: 1x Green

That's going to hit your 1k budget, and yeah it's not all BD.

At the Creek you're almost always pooling racks, don't let oddball situations dictate your purchases unless sandstone splitters are your normal day out, in which case it's not an oddball situation.

Russell89 wrote:Why do people like mastercams? I decided a thou is going to gear that's why im gonna spend it trips will be planned for too of course along with other things. If someone with a full rack (no budgetrack) can describe what they have and use the most in those areas it would be highly appreciated. Btw im not a climber who runs things out neither I will anticipate that in the near future so im a generous stitcher so ti say. Moderate conservative trad leaders opinions will be appreciated. Thank you all.

You've already had a few suggestions...what more are you looking for? Do you have any gear already, or are you starting from scratch? I'm a beginner (and like to stitch it up) myself and don't have much trad leading experience, but the rack that I have is basically what I posted above and there's no piece I haven't placed at least once.

Not every climb is the same. Some you can have bomber protection with just a set of nuts, and others need ten #2s. Unless the guide/beta says otherwise, though, the above racks should get you up a ton of stuff.

You should find some help here in this video :)
youtu.be/uxtg7raPDYo

My standard "colorado" rack (Eldo, Lumpy, etc)

Rack of BD nuts
Single set of BD C4s from 0.3 to 3 (7 cams)
Doubles of 0.5, 0.75, and 1 (3 more cams)

If there is going to be thin stuff, I might bring my C3s (0, 1 and 2, but most beginner trad climbs around here don't require these)
I also have RPs, but have never used them on a "beginner" climb.

If a climb specifically calls for it, I might bring doubles of different cam sizes, or larger cams (I own at least doubles of everything to #4, and one #5 and #6).

The creek is an entirely different matter. You need an obscene amount of gear to climb anything, but that is usually solved by going with partners. I actually own triples of the #1, #2, and #3, and if going with at least one other person that allows for many climbs. Of course, there are plenty of climbs that might require 8x of one size, and I doubt anyone is going to buy that many.

Specifically, I remember using 4 #1s for Chocolate Corner, along with a #2 and a #3 up high. You could get by with fewer, but you might want more if you are a beginner.

As someone else said, if you are going to go crazy with cams, buy #2s rather than #1s... there are a tone of easy climbs at the creek that can be lead on mostly #2s, while Chocolate Corner is an exception and most #1 cracks are harder...

Ditto the above but I usually bring doubles of 1's and 2's and either a single 3 or 4 depending on the climb

One thing to consider is how many of your partners have healthy-sized racks. Look at Alf- he's climbed more than you ever will and he only owns like 2 cams! It's all about climbing with the right people... sorry if that dirtbaggish advice offends anyone on here.
Like JohnL said, even if you've already "devoted your thou" to gear or whatever you said, you should really consider using that money to buy yourself some time to go climbing.

On a serious note... just let the routes you want to do dictate the gear you purchase! Open the guidebook for the areas you love to climb in and most will have a "standard rack".

to answer your question, find out what kind of booty Creek regulars prefer.
i think you need at least 10 each.

bergbryce wrote:to answer your question, find out what kind of booty Creek regulars prefer. i think you need at least 10 each.

Kudos to Creek regulars for pointing lost tourists with shiny racks to some classic lines! Salt lake city peeps big thank you, east coast semi retirees very entertaining conversation here's to sharing cams and ropes and good stories the season is rocking!

Why buy BD camalots when you can just buy tricams? They are cheaper and lighter. Winwin!

Why just Camalots? Other brands might be a good compliment to a set of C4's.

Oh Shiho. Sadly I know you are not joking

triples of everything. even tricams!

Get 2 of each of #5,#6 BD and WC cams, and maybe both Valley Giants - you won't ever have to own hand/finger size pieces if you hang out at the base of Big Baby, Serrator and such...