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Routes in Thin Air Face
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Adventures in 3D T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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D'arcy Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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D'arcy Traverse, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dawn Patrol T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Diagonal T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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DMZ T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Freedom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lancelot Link/ Secret Chimp T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Missing Link T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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No Mans Land T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X |
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Ozone Bypass T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Pro Choice T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rapid Transit T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Repulsion T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Repulsion Variation P1 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Rose Madder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Saigons, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spacewalk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Thin Air T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Thinner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Toe Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Turner's Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Windfall T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | 1931 leland pollock, Payson Newton, Robert Underhill |
| Page Views: | 6,981 total · 34/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Apr 20, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
A bold route for the times... Very typical of the climbs that were popular around this time, following a line with trees and other natural options for protection such as boulders and threads... The crux however is still not well protected even now with our modern gear...
Since it was done in the early 30's you might say it could be a good beginner trad route but it doesn't lend itself to safety for the less experienced climber... Loose rock, run outs, and awkward moves are all things that might make for an epic if you are not well practiced... That being said i would recommend doing Thin Air, Fun House to Upper Refuse, and a few slab routes before this one... But thats just me...
Pitch 1:(5.5) Start up the right leaning ramp as for Turners Flake (5.8) and continue right to the to the base of Toe Crack, the moves stepping right are tricky but not hard once you get it... Belay from Here...
Pitch2: Head right and in to the chimney... Follow the chimney up past a chockstone to a fixed belay in the cave... Fun chimney climbing...
Pitch 3: (5.7+ R) This is the R crux section, take a deep breath and be cool... climb up the right hand wall (5.6 R) making some hard for the grade moves to clip a fixed sling, what a relief, you are safe... After this you continue up the chimney on easier climbing to a tree belay (watch out for loose rocks)...
Pitch 4: (5.5) Follow the gully to the top (this part is a little less classic and dirty from what i remember but its been a few years).. From the top walk to the right or hitch hike down...
A great climb of this type but bring your spirit of adventure... have fun...
Since it was done in the early 30's you might say it could be a good beginner trad route but it doesn't lend itself to safety for the less experienced climber... Loose rock, run outs, and awkward moves are all things that might make for an epic if you are not well practiced... That being said i would recommend doing Thin Air, Fun House to Upper Refuse, and a few slab routes before this one... But thats just me...
Pitch 1:(5.5) Start up the right leaning ramp as for Turners Flake (5.8) and continue right to the to the base of Toe Crack, the moves stepping right are tricky but not hard once you get it... Belay from Here...
Pitch2: Head right and in to the chimney... Follow the chimney up past a chockstone to a fixed belay in the cave... Fun chimney climbing...
Pitch 3: (5.7+ R) This is the R crux section, take a deep breath and be cool... climb up the right hand wall (5.6 R) making some hard for the grade moves to clip a fixed sling, what a relief, you are safe... After this you continue up the chimney on easier climbing to a tree belay (watch out for loose rocks)...
Pitch 4: (5.5) Follow the gully to the top (this part is a little less classic and dirty from what i remember but its been a few years).. From the top walk to the right or hitch hike down...
A great climb of this type but bring your spirit of adventure... have fun...
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