RRG: Favorite sport 10's?

mustardtiger wrote:I don't even climb in the Red mostly becuase I perfer bouldering but I have alot of friends and family who really enjoyed roadside so I don't want to see that happen to a place like Muir...and yes I know that roadside was apparently closed due to the conditions at the crag but its all about moneny when you think about it.

I am trying to think about it but I don't see how money would of prevented Roadside from closing.

mountainproject.com/v/the-g…

You have to go check this part out; mountainproject.com/v/bruis…

DexterRutecki wrote: Meh boltergeist isnt that great, especially because everybody and their brother thinks its the best route in the Red and is perpetually packed. I think thrillbillies which is also 10b slab is a MUCH better route, more continuous, better moves, and not gang banged by gumbies all day! Other good tens check out the gallery wall, bruise brothers, great wall, hideout, techtonic, the shire, the playground etc etc... Just look through the book, they are everywhere!

I'm pretty sure this is the only guy that has responded that has spent any meaningful time in the red.

Everything at Tectonic and Bruise Brothers is popular because the climbs are downy soft.

Breakfast Burrito and Fire and brimstone are great, but good luck not waiting in line.

Thrillbillies really is a superb route.

Check out Chica Bonita and the Crossroads as well.

Obligatory douchebag moment - you're not going to enjoy the red all that much, most of the 10 and under climbs suck. Come back when you're stronger and enjoy the wonderland.

JasonJNSmith wrote: I am trying to think about it but I don't see how money would of prevented Roadside from closing.

honestly I forgot about the hammick and dog issue whe I made that post. Another one of the problems the onwers had was that they thought the base was getting too erodid and that the trail needed repair, thats more of a money issue. The other stuff I agree had nothing to do with owner it was just poeples habits and trash getting on their nerves and the owners refusal to allow other climbers help clean up the area. As soon as they began complaining about the new routes and permadraws dozens of climbers volunteered to removed the gear and help repair the trails but its remained close up until this winter when they began doing guided climbs there for 175 a day. I really really dont want to see Muir comes to this even though I dont climb there I still enjoy the hiking and spectating.

ethlogo wrote: I'm pretty sure this is the only guy that has responded that has spent any meaningful time in the red. Everything at Tectonic and Bruise Brothers is popular because the climbs are downy soft. Breakfast Burrito and Fire and brimstone are great, but good luck not waiting in line. Thrillbillies really is a superb route. Check out Chica Bonita and the Crossroads as well. Obligatory douchebag moment - you're not going to enjoy the red all that much, most of the 10 and under climbs suck. Come back when you're stronger and enjoy the wonderland.

Just a note from the OP, now back from the trip.

Short version: the Red is awesome!

I did want to say that I found the negative aspects of the post I've quoted here were incorrect. We found tons and tons of routes at the 5.10 grade that were really fun, and even a few (definitely not very many) at 5.7-5.9 that were pretty entertaining. As others have said, Muir Valley is a great place to go to seek out the easier (sub-11) stuff. I would certainly agree that the harder terrain looks totally amazing, and probably of higher quality than the moderates, but if you can comfortably lead 9's, you can find a lot to do and have fun doing it if you're willing to push yourself a little bit.

We didn't have a stick clip, but it sure did seem like there were a lot of routes that were set up with that in mind. We just pretended we were bouldering and called it good most of the time, but we did see a lot of folks carrying sticks.

We almost never had to wait to get on a climb, and in those rare cases there was always something right near by worth doing while the other party finished up. One day in Muir Valley we did not see a single climber on the rock (we did hear some, but didn't see them).

Boltergeist was super fun, and had a beautiful view from the anchors. Full disclosure: I think it might be closer to 5.8b than 5.10b.

Food was pretty challenging as expected. Rock House is a really good spot, thanks to whoever suggested that. A surprise for us was Mi Finca in Stanton. The ambience is...a bit lacking, to the point of thinking "is it safe to go in here?" But the carnitas and chili verde are really, really awesome. I just recently got back from Mexico, and the food at Mi Finca was better than almost every meal I had down there.

Anyhow, thanks to everyone for the good suggestions...can't wait to go back!

David, glad you had a good time at RRG and enjoyed the Rock House like we did last Fall. Yes, a stick-clip is almost mandatory at RRG but you can still make a primitive version from a sturdy branch, a QD, and some tape.
RRG in Oct is great but be ready for it to be more crowded.