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Elevation: 8,324 ft
GPS: 34.25346, -107.91038
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 21,663 total · 101/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Sep 12, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown
Warning Access Issue: Thompson Canyon DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This area is composed of one large boulder about 1.8 miles beyond the tower (off the same road). The routes are of the same stone as the tower and thus, feature similar climbing. If your looking to pack a lot of routes into a short period of time, this is a great location. Although shorter than the tower, there is a quality selection of routes here. All the routes are right next to each-other and you don't have to travel far to get on another route. Grades range from 5.10a to 5.12 b/c, with the majority being in the mid 11 to low 12 range. Summer shade in the afternoon on the east side of the formation.

There are three different sides to the formation. The sides and routes are listed from left to right (west to east) as you see them from the road/trail.

(I) West Face (AKA Grid Wall)--9 routes

Hike up the trail and head left when you get to the boulder. This beautiful wall of overhung and pocketed rock is known as the grid wall for a reason. It's not difficult to get off route or create link ups on this one, whether on purpose or accident. Get an idea of where you are going before you start up these routes. Routes are listed from left to right.

Beagle (5.11a)
Smeagol (5.11c)
Gandolf (5.11d/12a)
Servant of the Secret Fire (5.12a)
Something Lethal (5.12b)
Incredible Journey (5.12b/c)
Mr. Baggins (5.12a)
Lucky Number (5.12a)
Hoggle (5.10a)

(II) South Face--3 routes

The wall right in front of you as you approach the boulder.

American Psycho (5.12d)
Unknown project (5.13?)
Yo La Tango (5.11c/d)

(III) East Face--7 routes

The right side of the boulder looking from the trail/road.

Alice Does Wonderland (5.12a)
Lord of the Ring (5.11d)
Where the Thrush Knocks (5.11d)
Soft Start (5.10d)
Smaug (5.10c)
Frodo (5.11c)
Black Arrow (5.11a)

Getting There Suggest change

Continue past the tower about 1.8 miles. When you see a windmill on your right, look left, and you will see the mammoth boulder up on the hill. Parking is on the right side of the road. The boulder is about a 50 foot hike up the hill from the road.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Land Beyond

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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