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> Freak Brothers Dome
I Can't Believe It's a Girdle
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 3.9 from 33
votes
Routes in Freak Brothers Dome
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Fat Freddie's Escape T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Girdle Crossing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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I Can't Believe It's a Girdle T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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I Can't Believe it's a Sandbag T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Safe Muffins T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Zap #4 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | (P1): Randy Vogel, Charles Cole, 82 (P2): Phil Broscovak, Vogel, Jim Angione, 11/78 (P3): Vogel, Dave Houser, Maria Cranor (P4) Broscovak, Bartlett |
| Page Views: | 9,716 total · 37/month |
| Shared By: | Randy on Dec 31, 2002 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This 4 pitch route provides an excellent excercise in traversing along a thin dike that runs about mid-height through all three sections of the formation. The 2nd and 3rd pitches are scarier for the second than the leader. The route was put up over a number of years, with the 1st pitch being the last one established.
Pitch 1: (5.10b) Start off a small ledge near the left end of the west face, (near a small Yucca). Tricky and thin face moves up and left (5.10b), past a bolt, then straight up past 3 more bolts and a horizontal (medium cam) to a bolt belay on the left end of the dike. (You can traverse in from the left onto the dike to the belay -- avoiding 1st pitch -- as was done on the first ascent of the 2nd pitch).
Pitch 2: (5.9++; Scary for 2nd) Follow the dike right (3 bolts) all the way to a 2 bolt belay in a recess. Second should avoid falling after unclipping from the bolt protecting the crux -- it would be a long swing. From the end of this pitch, you can escape up easy cracks (5.6).
Pitch 3: (5.9) Keep heading right (above dike), then downclimb onto the dike, which at this point actually forms the lip of a very large roof. Well protected (but airy) moves lead to another recess and bolt anchor.
Pitch 4: (5.7) A last traversing pitch, past a single bolt (and optional gear) leads to easy climbing up to a large ledge. Scramble down right to the ground.
Pitch 1: (5.10b) Start off a small ledge near the left end of the west face, (near a small Yucca). Tricky and thin face moves up and left (5.10b), past a bolt, then straight up past 3 more bolts and a horizontal (medium cam) to a bolt belay on the left end of the dike. (You can traverse in from the left onto the dike to the belay -- avoiding 1st pitch -- as was done on the first ascent of the 2nd pitch).
Pitch 2: (5.9++; Scary for 2nd) Follow the dike right (3 bolts) all the way to a 2 bolt belay in a recess. Second should avoid falling after unclipping from the bolt protecting the crux -- it would be a long swing. From the end of this pitch, you can escape up easy cracks (5.6).
Pitch 3: (5.9) Keep heading right (above dike), then downclimb onto the dike, which at this point actually forms the lip of a very large roof. Well protected (but airy) moves lead to another recess and bolt anchor.
Pitch 4: (5.7) A last traversing pitch, past a single bolt (and optional gear) leads to easy climbing up to a large ledge. Scramble down right to the ground.
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