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Glass Menagerie Gear

Original Post
JF1 · · Idaho · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 400

Hey folks,
Two questions.
First how many and what type of hooks are most folks bringing? Is there any need to bring copperheads or is the whole thing pretty much fixed?

Second my good friend and are going to climb Glass Menagerie next weekend, but I came across a problem. I have another friend that wants to climb it and only two sets of jumars and aiders. I have one and one friend has the other. I even have a second set myself of old CMI jumars and A5 aiders, but I loaned them to a friend out West and he is out of contact till after next weekend.
Anyone have a set of jumars and aiders for loan or rent (Could pay with delicious beer or some cash) I am in Chattanooga, and will be heading out next Thursday.
Thanks in advance folks.
Adam

James Arnold · · Chattanooga · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 55

I can prolly help you out with that; drop me a line...

Jeff Mekolites · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 5,250

The only hooks or other odd things I remember bringing were cam hooks (narrow, 2-3) and it seemed like a black alien (or similiar) and tiny stoppers were very handy. No need for copperheads. Some fixed stuff, some bolts for the free variation.

JF1 · · Idaho · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 400

Will do Jim, Thanks.

Steve86 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 10

You will want some traditional hooks as well. Bring a talon and a cliffhanger/grappling and you will be set. Heads are unnecessary.

Southern Alex · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 5

I did it with a friend several years ago with any hooks or hammers, and I'd say that the hammers would still be unnecessary. A hook would have been helpful on one placement, but I was able to get around it with a nut in a horizontal. So, basically, take a hook if you want to stand on a hook, but you don't need it; a doubled NC trad rack was sufficient for us.

Remember to enjoy the view!

Jody Jacobs · · NE, GA · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 215

A single ascender can be used in conjunction with a grigri for rope ascending. I haven't used this setup for aid, but unless there's a lot of weird traverses it'd probably work.

Scott O · · Anchorage · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 70

I've climbed that thing three or four times now, the lower pitches more than that.

-You will want some traditional hooks (I usually bring a talon, a grappling hook, and a cliffhanger) and one or two mid-sized cam hooks.

-Leave the heads at home. Even the ones that are fixed could probably be worked around with creativity.

-Make sure you have one piece up to #5 C4 for the off-width. If you have two, your life will be easier with both.

Have fun, it's a great route.

JF1 · · Idaho · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 400

Thanks guys,
I have three camhooks, one that is medium sized. and do have some bigger gear as I love the wide.
Adam

Air Alexy · · Washington, DC · Joined May 2010 · Points: 30

I did it last year with only a talon hook and a standard trad rack with doubles through #3 and a single #4 and #5 and it was no problem. I will say that the "5.10+" traverse was the hardest of all the pitches we tried to free climb. We ended up having to aid it. I used tiny C3s for that portion, but perhaps some cam hooks might have helped. There is a reasonable amount of traversing, especially on the crux pitch.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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