Best easy trad in the Gunks?

So what does everyone think? I'm talking around the 5.4 to 5.5 range? Also I know the Gunks tend to be a little stiff so how does your route compare to others not at the Gunks of the same grade, or maybe even harder?

I would say that the 5.4 and 5.5 routes there feel like 5.4 or 5.5.

Yes, it is.

pooler wrote:So what does everyone think? I'm talking around the 5.4 to 5.5 range? Also I know the Gunks tend to be a little stiff so how does your route compare to others not at the Gunks of the same grade, or maybe even harder?

If you are wary of the grades, try Betty (5.3) or Easy Overhang (5.2) first. Then maybe Sixish nearby at 5.4. All are fun. Most anything with stars on here or in the Williams guidebooks will be worthwhile. (just avoid the "Extreme Angles" guidebook )

You could always hit Peterskill first for easy access to toproping to get a sense for the climbing. It makes it easy to bail and get your gear on rappel if you get on something too tough for you.

Note that there is a closure in the Trapps at the moment from Credibility Gap to Bitchy Virgin, so a lot of good options are off limits until perhaps July.

Jackie is a popular/fun climb. mountainproject.com/v/jacki…

Boston is short with some cool, non gunksy moves, but leading it might be sketchy, the description thinks it would be fine with either very large or small cams.

mountainproject.com/v/bosto…

I'm a total pansy on lead and I enjoyed leading the grades your talking about at the gunks. I just had to get used to the horizontal bands "hiding" jugs that were just out of sight. Know how to place a tricam before you go and you'll feel like you've got good gear.

Bunny is a pretty mellow and straight forward lead but get there early because it's usually taken.

I'll second the other ideas. Some other suggestions, in no particular order:

Gelsa
Beginner's Delight
No Picnic
Minty
Casa Emilio
Red Pillar
Southern Pillar
Northern Pillar
Ribs
Arch
Belly Roll
Hawk
Frog's Head

PTR wrote:I'll second the other ideas. Some other suggestions, in no particular order: Gelsa Beginner's Delight No Picnic Minty Casa Emilio Red Pillar Southern Pillar Northern Pillar Ribs Arch Belly Roll Hawk Frog's Head

good list. I go for 3 Pines, Belly Roll, and Jackie for sure.

Belly roll can be intimidating for the new leader IMO.

I sucked leading when I first did it back on old gear in '82. Which pitch was bad? I just remember the first one well.

My absolute favorite 5.5 is Ursula (well, it's not actually a 5.5).

Others are:
Horseman
Red Pillar
Asphodel
First pitches of Wrist and Bloody Bush.

PTR wrote:I'll second the other ideas. Some other suggestions, in no particular order: Gelsa Beginner's Delight No Picnic Minty Casa Emilio Red Pillar Southern Pillar Northern Pillar Ribs Arch Belly Roll Hawk Frog's Head

No doubt, this is a great list, but without actually knowing anything about the OP's ability to lead, I would recommend caution. The difference between Southern Pillar and Hawk is not to be trivialized.

Warm up on Easy Keyhole.... It's every bit of 5.2 off the ground.

-Black Fly/Nice Crack Climb- 5.5/ 5.7. Tree at top scramble to TR it and then lead? Well protected. NCC is a little slippery at the bottom if it is humid.

-Rhododendron (5.6-) all there and the lay back 5.6ish move is protected great, Bolted Belay/rap

-Jackie (5.6) Straight forward. moves are all well protected Bolted Belay/Rap on first pitch

-Bunny (5.4) bypass the roof unless you want to do a move or two of 5.6. Fun climb. Gear is a little spread compared to others possibly?

- Easy O (5.2) not exposed on the first pitch until the last few moves. Bolted Belay/rap

-Three Pines (5.3) must do, Bolted Belays/Rap

- Fingerlocks or Cedar Box (5.5) easy fingercrack link with Northern Pillar for nice route.
(can TR a few climbs off this first pitch)

- Kens Crack (5.7) but well protected and not intimidating.

- Laurel (5.7) hard to get off the ground for the grade. Keep your #3 for the crack at the top not down low or you will regret it if you climb around the grade.

-Dirty Chimney? (5.0) climb it and set a TR on Laurel and Rhododendron.

As for Boston, I wouldn't do it if you aren't comfortable with gear. You can supposedly place a huge cam or there is gear off to the side?. But I am pretty sure someone died on this and more have gotten hurt because of the Chimeny/Ow ending. I wouldn't do it if you don't wanna lead Kens or Laurel and they are much harder. I led this and felt more comfortable soloing it after because I didn't have a huge cam to protect the OW.

You're very fortunate to have such a wonderful crag to work through these grades. I have as many fond memories climbing 5.2-5.7 as any harder grades. Enjoy them all.
I would recommend trying your hand at complex nut placing techniques while wrestling easier terrain. Learn the gear before pushing the grade.
Fun fun fun, I am jealous.

PosiDave wrote:Warm up on Easy Keyhole.... It's every bit of 5.2 off the ground.

The start on Easy Keyhole is probably harder than any of the other routes you posted.

JohnWesely wrote: The start on Easy Keyhole is probably harder than any of the other routes you posted.

You aren't supposed to tell anyone... I got sent on that my first day on lead. Took me 10 minutes to think about if I really wanted to lead. Did it to a v7 boulderer and he felt humbled (after he threw my rack onto the carriage road and bitched about how it must be atleast 5.8.

Dave,

Send your boulderin' buddy to Harvard next.

Of the routes listed so far, the recent falcon nesting closure includes:

Beginner's Delight
Minty
Northern & Southern Pillars
Hawk
Asphodel
Fingerlocks or Cedar Box

You'll have to wait for the little falcons to leave home to climb these.

Jim Sweeney wrote: ...Of the routes listed so far, the recent falcon nesting closure includes: Beginner's Delight Minty Northern & Southern Pillars Hawk Asphodel Fingerlocks or Cedar Box You'll have to wait for the little falcons to leave home to climb these.

Shit, forgot about that.

With my limited gunks experience, I'll second Easy O and Horseman.

The first pitch of Easy O is fun enough, but nothing special. The second pitch is great fun despite being, well, easy. The third move or so of p2 is crazy exposed for a 5.2. Skip the second belay and go straight to the top. Watch out for loose cobbles up there.

The first half of Horseman offers some reasonably sustained crack/lieback climbing. If you have a #4 camalot that you need to put some scratches on there's definitely a placement for it (though it's not strictly necessary, there's plenty of pro). The traverse is something special. A classic for sure.

PTR wrote:I'll second the other ideas. Some other suggestions, in no particular order: Gelsa Beginner's Delight No Picnic Minty Casa Emilio Red Pillar Southern Pillar Northern Pillar Ribs Arch Belly Roll Hawk Frog's Head

X2 on Gelsa, fun three pitch climb. It gets crowded so plan accordingly.