Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 2,142 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Orphaned on Dec 20, 2007 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS!
Details
In the early '90's the USFS banned all placement of bolts in the Superstition Wilderness. This unfortunately includes replacement of existing bolts. Violating this ban may result in climbing restrictions on this beautiful area. Please think twice and go bolt somewhere else.
Description
The route goes up crack systems on the wall just to the left of the entrance to Suction Gully. P1: Work up double cracks until it is possible to step into the left crack system. Follow the crack up to a right facing corner and behind a finger to a slinged belay. ~100' P2: Move left to a crack system that ascends past a white spot. Squeeze through a hole to a tied-off belay boulder. ~100' P3: Work left and climb into a chimney to a belay ledge where it there is an obvious traverse to the left. Pro is sparse for the belay anchor. ~100' P4: Traverse left around a corner and follow cracks and corners to a false summit. Scramble right to the true summit. Pro is sparse on this pitch. One bolt to belay. ~150' Descent: Downclimb south and east of the summit on belay, or rap off the one bolt w/ quick link to a rap slinged tree. Make a 2-rope rap down a chimney to a niche to a rap slinged chockstone. Make another 2-rope rap down a gully to the ground.
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