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Brassmonkey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 5

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Mike V. · · Logan, UT · Joined May 2010 · Points: 47

I hike a lot in the area, but certainly don't climb any of the remote peaks. You're looking at ~5 miles of approach with somewhere around 2k' gain to get to anything resembling rock climbing. In addition I believe you have to bushwhack down to the start of the climb. There are some good threads on some climbs on adkhighpeaks.com, but I wasn't able to find them quickly.

Auto-X Fil · · NEPA and Upper Jay, NY · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 50

You want this book:

adirondackrock.com/purchase…

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

Jim Lawyer gives a good, well detailed description of the approach and the existing routes in his guidebook. There's almost definitely some potential for new routes up there as well.

T.L. Kushner · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined May 2009 · Points: 5
Brassmonkey wrote:Also Jim said it realy hard to get off the ground there, does anyone have any idea why?
the base of the rock does not just pop out of the ground like the letter L. to get to the actual stone you need to practically crawl your way up crumbly, vegetated terrain and then find someplace to situate yourself while you begin the actual climb itself. your best bet is probably to do something like find a place near the base of the stone that will take some gear, build a rudimentary anchor, and start the climb off from a semi-hanging belay right off the "ground"

as far as unclimbed lines, i've only done 1 route on upper WJ and it definitely looked like there were lines that were so overgrown and moss covered that i doubt that anyone has ever climbed them.....on the other hand, those overgrown, moss covered cracks were probably just your standard adirondack "classic" that hadn't been climbed in a week or so
Mark A.S. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 0

What cliff are you thinking about? I spent a considerable amount of time on the upper wolfjaw cliff and I'd say there is definitely room for more lines. Would you be looking to do ground up stuff or pre-inspect from the top? There is a roof to the left of the established lines that would take a good effort to get through and to the left there is a easier looking chimney line that might need a lot of trundling. Either way, definitely a nice spot to spend some time. If you do go up there I'd be curious to know how it goes.

Mark A.S. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 0

Sorry for the delay in responding. The guidebook estimate of 2.5 hours is pretty accurate, especially for the first time up there. I think maybe we got it down to a little under 2. You might be able to snag a ride on the ausable club bus in the summertime and save half an hour that way. I don't have any pictures but will say that there are certainly other possibilities up there. Though doing everything in day would be ambitious.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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